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Sorry if you have done this, but are you hard panning the things you want to assign?

So,

Kick output 1+2 panned hard left
Snare Output 1+2 hard right
Toms output 3+4 Hard Left
Cymbals 3+4 hard right?

I think it all depends on the sound. If a dsdn has 2 zones built into it, it will show 2 zones and you'll need a pad and a correct trigger type to work it.
Thus, if that sound only has a single zone on it, the rim and pad will trigger that sound.
I think I have got this right, anyone?

Lustar's Software alone seems like it's worth getting a windows machine (yeah I know I can partition the Mac to have windows on it, but I am trying to preserve limited SSD space)

Doesn't have to be a powerful machine so I could probably pick up a SH laptop for less than £100 that would do the job nicely.

I thought that's a page not a group.

Yes absolutely! Just have to pick a pad type (probably kick will suffice) set gain, threshold, mask time and curve to suit your playing and you'll be away!

That is SOOO cool man! Great job. I'd loved to have gigged with this set up!

I know what you mean about the spongy thing. My largest pad (13") was specified for that reason alone. I figured if I went larger I would run into that issue. Also, it does save a bit of space too.
Some heads (Drum-tec) are much better than others, haven't tested personally to know, but Justin over at 65drums highly rates the drumtec ones even on 16" He does say though that higher rather than lower tension is recommended.

I use on my Yamaha pads the Aquarian cymbal springs. They will stop it spinning and will also make sure there's give when hit. That's my best suggestion.

Anyone got a Di3 with the Yamaha PSY115? I am getting edge sound on the bell at random hits, sometimes quite loud and as I use the Randy Black ride sample, the edge isn't very nice. I have the right trigger setting (CpSY) and all the gains threshold etc are right. It's less so if I hit with the tip of the stick, but not totally eliminated.

You could always take a hacksaw to the L shaped mounting piece where the bass drum pedal attaches, saw off just enough to get the pedal perfectly close to the head. Perhaps file the rough edges and then paint with hammorite for atheistics, but that'll also work, will probably be better idea than my first one.

You could put a 10mil (at a guess) spacer on the mounting plate. The part I mean, is the L piece that bolts to the kick pad and what the pedal connects to on the floor. So, take that off (I think it's 4 tension bolts) cut some wood that's about the size of the the mounting L piece that the pad section (so that when it's connected it doesn't stand out) drill holes where the tension rods connect and put it between the pad and the L piece. Thus moving the bottom part (where the pedal connects) 10 mil (or however deep it will be) further back.

I hope I have explained myself enough, I'd need pictures to show it properly.

You will probably need longer tension rods though, assuming the thread sizes are standard, shouldn't be hard to obtain from a drum shop.

I had this problem but I got around it by adjusting the beater cam further toward the head.

There's a great group on Facebook called "E-Drums world, For all things Electronic drumming" which I am on (as is Jman) as well as a lot of 2box users, I always go there for advice, commentary, news etc. It's great group with loads of really friendly members.

Hmmm, that's a first! (hearing this issue)

As a test, try using a different kit, or tom sounds. It sounded like at first perhaps a broken piezo in one or all of the tom triggers. But, for it to be rectified upon turning it off then on again, that wouldn't rectify the problem. Also the chances of all tom triggers breaking at the same time... extremely unlikely.

Set the kit up in your home and try a process of elimination. Different tom sounds, different trigger (try pads if you have any) different cables, look at cross talk settings etc.

I believe it's piezo/switch/switch

Piezo - pad, switch - near rim and switch - farthest rim. Other than that all I know it works a charm!!! Totally clear separation with good dynamics on all 3 zones!

Yeah you're probably right. I didn't get to test the module with the iffy card as a full kit, only had cymbals triggered, and the occasional lag happened on hats, crashes and ride. Like, when it happened, anything I hit lagged MASSIVELY. I guessed it was a card read error, Bengt agreed and sent me a new card, since the new one was installed, two gigs done with not a single issue. Set up is playing fantastic.
btw... those DW sounds you spoke of in a different post, very eager to load them on the "drums" di3 module when they become available as that demo sounded fantastic!!!