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[Yes. The original drumit5 module came out in the late 2000s (I think 2008 to be more precise) The only real difference other than cosmetic is the di3 has a better trigger interface so you can fully use Roland or Yamaha style pads/cymnbals. The hihat is where this is felt more than anything as the original hihat for the di5 left a lot to be desired. You can get a Zurman box which will adapt a Roland hihat for use with the original di5 module.]

Is the Drumit 5 MK1 kit older than the Drumit 3?

Yes. The original drumit5 module came out in the late 2000s (I think 2008 to be more precise)
The only real difference other than cosmetic is the di3 has a better trigger interface so you can fully use Roland or Yamaha style pads/cymnbals. The hihat is where this is felt more than anything as the original hihat for the di5 left a lot to be desired. You can get a Zurman box which will adapt a Roland hihat for use with the original di5 module.

All the tutorials seem to reference Drumit 3 or Drumit 5 MKII. Both of these models have product pages on the 2box website, but the Drumit 5 MK1 is only referenced in the support pages. Other than the physical controls on the front of the module, the Drumit 3 seems to be more advanced than the 5 MK1, but the naming convention is confusing if that's the case.

It's only the trigger interface, the sound engine is the same on all modules. So 2box sounds can be used on any version of the di5 or di3.

Is there a more updated manual for the Drumit 5 on OS 1.3x, or would any of the operations have changed since 1.24? 

yes, I believe the most unto date version of the OS is 1.36. Though there's a 1.40 which I think has appeared on FAME module (rebranded drumit3)

The manual for Drumit 5 on the 2box support page references OS 1.24. There are PDF manuals contained within the "DI5-Content 1.30" download, and they both reference OS 1.24.  On the other hand, the Drumit 3 manual references OS 1.32 while the 5 MKII manual references 1.36, the current OS version. I think we've been running OS 1.30 since we first got this module, but we recently loaded 1.36.30.

I am not sure how to answer this.

Does the Drumit 5 MK1 have the same hihat controller compatibility as the other 2 modules?

The original di5 hihat system can be used on the di3 and di5 MK2 modules.

Drumit 3 has a compatibility list showing "Adjustable resistor, active hall generator, or switch," and the current models have a "Hihat B" input for the controller.

Yes, Roland hihats have 2 outputs, the cymbal part and an output for the controller. The original Hihat was all on one cable.

If the controller compatibility is similar, would a TRS splitter adapter cable be able to combine the signal from a third-party hihat trigger and controller pedal, or would I need a Zourman conversion kit?

Zourman box is for use with Roland Hihat controllers/cymbals. I do recommend this, it's a vast improvement over the original hihat system


If the controllers we are looking at aren't Roland or ATV brand, how would we know which conversion kit to look for?

Goedrum/Lemon/Jobeky etc use the Roland style hihat controller. I am not sure if ATV can be used in an orginal drumit5 module. Send Anders a message (or perhaps he'll chime in here with an answer) about this.

I got some small rubber rings off ebay, they weren't the exact same ones but they were close enough and did the job. The trouble can come if the hook on the plastic inner ring has broken off so the rubber ring cannot attach, then it's a little trickier. The person that bought my kit off me had a few like this but I did get around that with the use of small elastic bands, but it's hard to describe what I did. I basically looped it over, then under and hooked that to the metal frame.

That's a Good question! The very least, You'll get 2 zones but maybe not 3. So they'll be good for a crash/China. 

Maybe someone else who's got a Lemon cymbal with a Mk1 module can chime in to confirm this.


 

You often see these cymbals for sale separately on ebay. I would do a "save search" for 2box drumit 5 cymbals if there's none up at the moment, the second someone lists one, you'll get notified.

When I had a drumit5 kit, I had several failures which I repaired. Usually those prongs bend and touch the main plate leading to a constant choke sound. Just bending the prongs back so there's a space left fixed that.

I had the rubber split on the edge. Some people had theirs go all the way around with no effect to playability. Myself I just put some Gorilla tope on the split which held it until I needed to it again some time later (approx 6-12 months)

I can't tell from the photo, but it looks like the secondary plate is coming away from the neoprene, get some rubberised contact adhesive and reglue, that should fix it.

Other issues could be to do with the piezo. They had a special one, like a donut design, I was not able to find replacement donut piezos online anywhere.

I instead took the cymbal completely apart, put 2 x 10mm on each side of the hole, re-wired it and also put a resistor inline with the phase to cool it a bit as it was a little too hot for the module without. I cannot remember the rating, but I am gonna say 2k ohm  resistor. Best check with 2box (or ask Deve Loper on here, he'll likely know!)

Another fix was the donut piezo worked but had come away a little from the main plate, I just glued that back. It was a little tricky to get at it through the hole, but I managed it and that fixed it.

Good luck!

Bt1 is a piezo/switch device (I am sure you know that) and as such will work best in a cymbal socket. It need the switch activated to trigger. I used two mounted to the snare drum a few years ago while on a rock tour and I had to put them in cymbal sockets to avoid the snare triggering them. I was using acoustic cymbals so I had them spare.

That's good to know! Noise on a cymbal isn't an issue for me as I will use them live mostly and have a guitarist and a bassist who insist on bringing amps, even though the drums do not have their own amplification on stage aside from 2 x 15" wedge monitors for the band, go figure.

The look kinda nice too and seem quite well priced.

Wow, so an OS upgrade is a contributor to latency? I'd have never have thought that could be the case. Hopefully this info can be very useful to a new user!

Was that across the boards, as in, was this the same with the onboard sounds?

Not natively.

As far as I know, Positional sensing was first implemented by Simmons on their SDX system in the 80s. Then Ddrum did it with Ddrum3 module in the early 90's, the Ddrum4 in late 90s then it wasn't done until Roland did it (and patented it) on the TD30 (I played one on a ship contract and I never thought it was very good to be honest)
The Mimic pro does it, Yamaha DTproX module (though I haven't seen it demo'd) the edrumin does but it depends on what it's triggering and of course Roland TD50/27 modules.

For sure the edrumin will be more useful as a trigger device. No slight on the 2box triggering or efnote (can't say about efnote myself as I haven't played one, but its got a great reputation!) It's just I find the edrumin UI and triggering excellent.

Do you mean the 14" Orange ones that were made for the Drumit5 module, as in the original orange one?

Also, what's your location?

What's the smitten button?

I am 99% sure the WAVs should be at 44.1khz and 24 or 16bit. When you say drag and drop, they should be done from the audio file browser within the drumit app.

All Stereo (TRS) cables, without exception. Mono cables will work on kick drums at that's a single zone input anyway, on other drums it will work but you'll lose rim triggering on those channels and edge/choke on cymbals. So to recap, just use TRS throughout.

If nothing happens when playing it with sticks it's a piezo/connection issue. The trick will be getting at it to repair. I did a repair on a 14" cymbals a few years ago and it worked out, but it was tricky. I am not sure it would be easier with a hihat, but let's assume it will be the same. Getting it all apart to access it was the hardest part, and once repair was done, re-glueing it with neoprene spacer (like what you see under the prongs in the pic) sufficiently for the top plate to be re-glued onto of that.

Also, the piezo they used was a donut design rather than a standard typical disk. Not being able to obtain a donut piezo from anywhere, I opted for (I think) 3 10mm piezos which where hot glued into place in a triangle formation around the hole at the center of the cymbal pad.

As this resulted in them being hot in signal, I then wired a resistor into the phase connection before jack socket. I cannot remember what Ohm resistor, if I recall it may have been a 2K one. But it cooled it enough to make it usable.