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open up Audio MIDI Setup. go to the MIDI window and see if your Uno appears there. if not you can try manaully adding it as a MIDI device.

also, did you try restarting your computer?

three tips:

firstly, download the free MIDI spying utility called MIDI Monitor (OS X only):

http://www.snoize.com/MIDIMonitor/

this will allow you to see what MIDI messages are being sent and received (if any).

secondly, try swapping the plugs around. MIDI plugs are often badly labelled in ambiguous ways.

thirdly, if you just want to record the MIDI messages from the module, you don't need to connect both MIDI cables, just the one that is required to get MIDI to the computer...

anyway, the 2Box module outputs are definitely only -10 dBV.

okay, quick update...

it turns out that the Quartet has 16 dB of headroom on its line inputs when they are set to -10 dBV mode. from my testing that means that the 2Box output reference level is 0 dBV, not -10 dBV. so it's somewhere in-between the most common consumer level of -10 dBV, and the 'pro' +4 dBU level...

[The OUT1-6 outputs have the ring contact to ground. So if a balanced TRS to XLR cable would be used, the XLR negative signal is correctly grounded.]

it's strange that the current user manual has no mention of output reference level, or even whether the outputs are balanced or unbalanced. the 1.10 version of the manual had some information about that, which is:

The OUT1-6 outputs have the ring contact to ground. So if a balanced TRS to XLR cable would be used, the XLR negative signal is correctly grounded.

which is a kind of quick and dirty floating/psuedo-balanced setup.

anyway, the 2Box module outputs are definitely only -10 dBV.

i just did a test: i generated a 1 kHz sine tone at 0 dBFS and played the WAV file from my module. i cranked the output level, the song level, and the mix level to maximum. my module is connected with a balanced TRS -> XLR cable to an Apogee Quartet (which only accepts balanced line level signals). with the inputs of my interface set at -10 dBV, the signal peaks at -6 dB, which is very quiet...

it's possible that the -6 dB maximum is because of the way the Apogee metering works with a pseudo-balanced signal, but either way the output is not hot enough to be +4 dBU.

what i mean is that cheap cables tend to be hit and miss. many cables are stupidly over-priced too, that is for sure.

sorry to be a party pooper, but the main problem with cheap cables is unreliable wiring and soldering. XLRs are especially a problem, but TRS jacks are also tricky to do right...

okay, it turns out the extender cable is damaged, probably where the sharp bend is on the end that plugs into the card holder inside the module. the problem is the two ramped ridges in the casing that are designed to hold a card in place by pressed on the end of it.

i've installed a spare extender cable that i already had, however maybe sometime in the future i will grind some of those ridges off with my Dremel...

aaaaand, although the extender cable was also damaged and a bit flaky, it turns out i had also accidentally switched one of my MIDI interfaces into thru mode, so it was looping back program change messages to the 2Box module. that was causing the kit change weirdness. and causing the reggae loop to be stopped immediately after being triggered. duh.

last night i turned on the module and some strange things started happening.

firstly, the module jumps backwards and forwards between kits uncontrollably when turning the dial to select another kit. sometimes it would scroll around for half a minute before finally stopping. i thought maybe the potentiometer was dodgy, however it seems to work fine when selecting other parameters.

secondly, once a kit is chosen, nearly everything works okay. however, i have noticed that some loops will not play. for example, the reggae loop on the first tom rim of the #5 Cube Beech kit won't play, although the file is still listed for the kit piece.

has anyone else experienced such weirdnesses???

i have been using a 32 GB SDHC card with an extender for many months without any issues, i and haven't made any any changes to the card recently.

hmmm... the module won't boot at all using the original card in the extender. i guess i need to open it up later and test the cards without the extender...

hey sorry to hear that, look after yourself and enjoy life.

the current rates were set in 2011. here is one online calculator that you can use:

http://www.dutycalculator.com/new-import-duty-and-tax-calculation/

YouTube audio quality is not that great either, so the suggestions above are definitely better if you want to get an idea of the sample quality. however that doesn't exactly tell you what the samples sound like when they are played by the module...

a better bass drum mounting system would be good for sure. mine is sort of okay except it is on a funny angle and there is no way to adjust it as the angle is more or less fixed according to the way the clamp locks onto the grooves of the lower tube.

however my main bugbear is the rim trigger system, all those dinky plastic bits held on with o-rings. in my experience it doesn't trigger evenly and breaks easily.

i vote for purple!

Google Translate will get you most of the way there:

http://translate.google.com.au/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bonedo.de%2Fartikel%2Feinzelansicht%2Fe-drum-vergleichstest-die-oberklasse.html&act=url

yep, a better stand is a good idea.

the position of the hihat is transmitted using a continuous stream of MIDI messages when the pedal is moving. so for fine, fast hihat work, a more responsive stand with a stronger adjustable spring makes a big difference.