Hihat with other brand cymbals

[Slap the drummer]

Holy hell, that thing is $250 over here!

I don't get it.....  why not just make up a "semi-open" .dsnd file and then you can "dial in"
the clutch from the module.....    no doubt I'm missing something 

[twisted.mellow]

The purpose of the drop clutch is to hit it while you are playing and drop the top hat, for a closed sound for a section of the song. The only thing that is needed to re-engage the clutch is to put the foot down on the pedal. How could I do that with the module?

Speaking of which, it would be nice if 2Box had some footswitch capability or external midi command support...

[Slap the drummer]

The only thing that is needed to re-engage the clutch is to put the foot down on the pedal. How could I do that with the module?

that'll be the something I was missing then

[Slap the drummer]

Yeah I didn't realize the idea was to move back and forth in the middle of a number....
man that's some crazy sh!t.

Mind you, you could make a special file where the 100% open layer was the closed
sound of your choice, then just remember to keep away from fully open inbetweentimes....

Or I suppose yopu cd just buy a drop clutch 

[Manfred]

Speaking of which, it would be nice if 2Box had some footswitch capability or external midi command support...

Hi,

i had a similar idea to use a (foot-)switch instead of a mechanical dropclutch. Maybe you saw already this topic with the schematic and a youtube video:

http://www.2box-forum.com/index.php/topic,592.0.html

Regards, Manfred


Edit: By the way, i thought about implementing this to the circuit board. But then i decided to keep the board smaller. I was afraid that it is getting bulky with another connector for the switch.

[edtc]

hi

I tried to use a ROLAND PD-8 as hihat cymbal , with Manf'sBOX , and it works great... zone 8 & 4 are triggered fine

Those pads are PIEZO(head) / SWITCH(rim) , just like 2BOX cymbals are ...

You can also use them for cymbals , and choke works also if you squeeze the rim ...

ok , it s not very good looking , but those pads are cheap and easy to find on the second hand market ...

[roel]

so Manfred you make these boxes at home? what's the price for 1?

[Manfred]

Hi,

right now i don't have completed boards ready but i still have something between 10 and 20 sets of components. So if you are interested in either a set of components or a completed board just send me a PM.

Regards, Manfred

[Manfred]

Hi,

since there are a few users who are interested in one of the boards i want to give a short update. As already said i have something between 10 and 15 sets of components left but no completed boards right now.

I need to spend a whole day to complete the boards because it doesn't make sense for me to do just a single board. And unfortunately i haven't had the time up to now. So please give me some more time. I will answer each PM once i have boards ready.

Sorry for the delay,

Manfred

[roel]

I'll be patient first I need a better hihatstand and then we will see further.

[BURNIN AMBITION]

i did the opposite lol. first got the board, and i am waiting for summer to get a new h2000 hhstand!!!and i also need a cy-5 btw!!!

[Manfred]

Hey guys,

today i tried to build some boards but after 4 pcs. i gave up because of a reject rate of 100%. Soldering the tiny sensor chip is really pain in the a... I think i need other ideas how to do that otherwise it is getting to expensive for me.

Regards, Manfred

[Jman]

Hey guys,

today i tried to build some boards but after 4 pcs. i gave up because of a reject rate of 100%. Soldering the tiny sensor chip is really pain in the a... I think i need other ideas how to do that otherwise it is getting to expensive for me.

Regards, Manfred

I was amazed you were able to solder any of those. When I looked through a magnifying glass at the A1392 hall effects sensor I could just barely make out the 6 posts/pads!!! That was the point when I knew I wouldn't stand a chance soldering to that with my large, clunky hands I had hoped they made something similar, but with legs like some of the hall sensors, but never found anything.

[Jman]

Hey guys,

today i tried to build some boards but after 4 pcs. i gave up because of a reject rate of 100%. Soldering the tiny sensor chip is really pain in the a... I think i need other ideas how to do that otherwise it is getting to expensive for me.

Regards, Manfred

Here's a link to one interesting method/instructable involving a toaster oven:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Toaster-Oven-Reflow-Soldering-BGA/?ALLSTEPS

[Manfred]

Hi Jman,

thanks for the link. My problem right now is not the soldering itself. I have access to a rework station from time to time which makes soldering easy:

http://www.ersa.com/art-smt-bga-rework-346-1482.html

But the problem is to apply the right amount of solder paste. I didn't invest in a stencil for the solder mask which means i have to do it manually with an injection. That was not really successful today. Maybe next time i try in two steps. Tin coating of the board in a first step and the sensor with flux in a second step.

Another idea would be to order the boards with the SMT components already soldered. But this would be a high investment which i actually don't want to do. Remember that this is just a "community thing" and i'm neither a company nor a dealer.

Best thing would indeed be to find a sensor which doesn't even require a printed circuit board. Then everybody could do it on its own at home with a perfboard. Maybe i should think about another solution.

Regards, Manfred