14" cymbal repair

[welshsteve]

Hello all,
It's gone a bit quiet here hasn't it? Anyway, I repaired a 14" 2box cymbal pad by replacing the one donut shaped piezo around the hole for two 10mm piezo and apart from the hassle of cleaning the cymbals plates, sourcing some neoprene dampening, glueing it back, then the soldering, it was really easy, just a bit time consuming. It triggers fine, like before. But I suspect it's a little "HOT" even with gain at 0db. So was thinking of adding a resistor to the wiring. Does anyone know where I would solder this and what impedance?

Thank you in advance.

[Coda]

Best to solder a resistor at the jack in-between the wire and the Tip of the jack. That's the wire that carries the signal (along with the Sleeve).
My DIY hi-hats with 20mm piezo are quite hot, so I had a 50K trimpot turned to about a 1/3rd. So, I would suggest start with a 22K or 33K resistor and go from there.
BTW - Impedance is not the same as Resistance. Resistors are signal-agnostic and so are specified in Resistance (also Ohms like Impedance). Confusing? yep.

[welshsteve]

Thanks for the tip and yes, I'm confused about resistence vs impedance. Thankfully I don't need to know the difference at this stage, I'll just take your advice.

[welshsteve]

I can confirm the 22k resistor worked a treat and cooled the signal enough now it triggers great and the bell only triggers on the bow if I absolutely LEATHER it. Gonna gig with it tomorrow and report back.

[Coda]

Glad to know I actually helped 

[welshsteve]

Gigged with the repaired cymbal pad last night and the 22k resistor made it way more dynamic. No more Bell on the bows. However, only med to hard hit register a bell on the bell. But that's the trade off. I will probably find the sweet spot on the gain between bell on bow and bow on bell setting, if you follow. But for the most part, it was much better.