Messages

Thank you my friend so much. This means that i should use zouman box with a vh11. Since i dobt have an fd8, its either i stay as i am, or upgrade with ch11 and zourman box. I am really puzzled at what to do. Have to contain my gak and decide what i need.

As per your question, while i play, after some time of hitting (not lightly but i am not a basher as well, i have proper technique) semi open sounds change by themselves to fully open mostly, ir closed.
i think i managed today to ubderstand what possibly happens. The way i mounted mannfred box is not optimal. And i think probably while i play, the bix is moving towards magnet slightly, thus changing hhat position. And i need to calibrate after a while. So many years i just recalibrated. I think ill need with some diy to contain the box in such a way, that it doesnt move. Difficult but ill try. If i fail, then definitely i need a hat and zourman kit. But if i manage my diy then this could be amazing news. Ill try to post a pic from my mobile

thank you my friend

thank you for that. it makes me even more sceptical on the purchase.
Btw in regard to the vh11, if i go down that path and get it, is there any common issues that surface that i should check? common vh11 problems you could share? thank you for your input

Hi there guys. long time since i appeared here. sorry about that.
Well my kit still goes strong. apart from some inevitable crackling of some tom mounts, i think it is great.
Well until now, the hihat i was using was a roland cy-5 with the manfred conversion kit. The one with the magnet you had to install underneath the hhat pedal.
Well this has served its cause to be honest. But my pearl h2000 hhat stand cant reallyhave the magnet stuck on it and it is difficult to somehow glue it. This always caused recalibration to be done very often, misstrigers etc. it is great but once you start to get really picky on what you expect, it is good enough but barely.

6 montsh ago i was thinking about the zourman conversion kit. Mainly due to a new band i was starting. well this faded quickly. But again i have a great band and this is to stay. And we will occasionally practise at my place. I will need hhat consistency. So again i am thinking about upgrade paths. I will need your help to decide

At first i was thinking about vh-11 along with zourman kit. I found a vh-11 at 140 euros. Seems like a steal, but i am starting to think that it is high likely this will be in a not great shape. and i would have to result to diy. which i hate. and i need consistency.
Buying a new vh-10 or vh-11 is my second thought. But this is really expensive and id rather invest 300 euros in other areas.
So, the reason i am writting thsi thread.
Here is my thought and i need advice.
Why not use my cy-5, with zourman box? Anyone has already done it btw, to share the experience?
Cy-5 has bow edge and foot right now with manfred box. so i am assuming this will work as 3 zones with zourman as well, right?
Since zourman doesnt have a magnet, this should trigger better than manfred box right?
My main problem is that when starting to play along, after some time, when having the hhat semi open or open (but especially in semi open position is is obvious), the sound alters a lot. i dont move my foot, i keep it in the same open position, but sound is altering like if i am moving the pedal. i am thinking that this can have to do with the magnet.when playinbg and with vibrations etc, the distance from the box and magnet could micromove hence that sound?

if cy-5 with zourman box can have great sensitivity with opening and closing hhat, and no misstriggerings (they can always happen, but i mean to avoid them 90% of all times), i would buy it tomorrow.
i would really like to read your opinions. if i can avoid buying a vh-11 or vh10, id prefer that really.
Thank you guys

ps. manfred box has 2 plugs. zourman box has 3 plugs. do i need to buy another cable? or cy-5 needs only 2 cables with zourman box? i will get 3 zones with cy-5 right?
ps2. i dont have a fy-8 pedal
Cheers guys

thank you so much. i assume that my technician will know this technique. thank you

Hi. Yes thats the right encoder. Its a pretty closed housing so I guess spray wont get in.
Probably best to replace them. You can pretty easily clip all 5 metal pins so you can solder away each pin by itself.
Best of luck, Deve.

my friend, i really dont understand what that means (clipping all 5 metal pins, and soldering each one "by itself")... probably i will send this to a technician to fix, so what do i tell them. this will be straightforward for a good technician, right?

... plus 2 metal brackets.

so i need to also purchase some metal brackets? which are these?? is there a link so that i can order them?

Just be careful when you replace these. Encoders like these don't like a lot of heat for too long of a time while soldering. They are easy to damage internally if they are heated too high and for too long. Although hand soldering is not recommended, it can be done if you are careful.
The datasheet for the PEC12R shows the soldering criteria.

what else can be done apart from hand soldering? i have a small solder pen but i will send this to a technician to build. ill read the sheet and specify to him not to heat it that much. thank you



thank you guys

Hi. It's the encoder being worn out. They should give a nice gray code but states will flip at random.
Opening up the unit and spray them inside might help. Orherwise best to replace.
The one used is the PEC12R 4220F S0024.
But the 4120F S0012 might be safer as it has only 12 pulses per rev so each gray "stretch" is double as long. But it takes also twice as much rotating to change a value.
Regards, Deve.

Thank you deve. since english isnt my mother language, i didnt grasp what you meant by "encoder".
After googling it, it is this thingy, right?
https://gr.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/PEC12R-4220F-S0024?qs=Zq5ylnUbLm7u%2FuPQvUoR4Q%3D%3D
https://www.digikey.gr/product-detail/en/bourns-inc/PEC12R-4220F-S0024/PEC12R-4220F-S0024-ND/4499653

As i can see (unless i am wrong), this needs soldering, correct?
wouldnt that be a big risk? wouldnt there be a chance of ruining the module?
i am afraid to do this procedure, if i am to lose the module entirely. thank you for trying to help me.
if i open the module and spray, where would i need to spray exactly? underneath the encoder perhaps?
wouldnt want to do any damage as well.
and i spray just with pressed air, right?
thank you

hi guys. one quick question. after 8 years of having drummit 5, i noticed that sometimes when i turn the knobs (for instance when changing kits), i notice that the kits change strangely. it will go for example, 1,2,3,4,5,34,5,6,7,8,4,5,6, etc. i turn it right and instead of going forward it goes back etc.

i assume it needs cleaning. i havent openned the kit since i did the mod, and i remember that i had scratched a bit the plastic nuts on the back...

to fix this, is it a matter of openning the kit and undusting it, or spraying it with pessed air? do i have to do something else? can it be fixed without openning the kit? anyone else had that?

module works flawlessly apart from that

1. Right. No edge switch below the top cymbal, if also using a lower cymbal.
2. You will be fine with your Manfred box and the “new” diy hh.

Best regards

Anders / www.zourman.com

ahh my friend, you are zourman. sorry for not noticing. 2box has been so well to me so that i havent really lurked in the forums for ages. should have known. thank you for your help and thank you for helping the 2box community in general.

ps. these switches dont break when hit, right? ill use a (sort of ) cymguard on the edge of the cymbal though)

The CY-5 is using one piezo and one switch. It is connected in a easy way...the Piezo is connected between tip and sleeve and the switch is connected between the ring and sleeve.

The piezo is located in the middle of the bow. The switch is on the edge.

The box...is that the current pedal box?

Best regards

Anders / www.zourman.com

thank you so much my friend.
the box i mention, is the original hi hat adapter that manfred had made (if i remember the name right). i know that later on jman made one, and zourman also. but i have the first edition. so if i simply place a piezo on bow and a switch on edge (on top of the cymbal and not below, or could the switch work if it is placed under the top hi hat cymbal?), this should work with my current hi hat adapter, correct?
thank you so much. i think ill become soon a diyer

thank you jman and thank all of you guys.

i have a last question. perhaps you can help. as i said before, i have the first edition of the hihat box that makes me use a roland cy-5 as a 2box hi hat.

so, my question is this.
if i am to build a hi hat, that will work the same way as a cy-5, how should i wire it? how does a cy-5 work? obviously it has an edge switch. but how many piezos does it have? only one on the bow? because if it only has one, would that be the same as a 2box hi hat? the bow that i got, wouldnt be needed. or should i place 2 piezos and a switch? and if i have to use 2 piezos, one must be in bow and the other on edge? and how are they connected?? any help? otherwise perhaps i should get rid of my box, get a switch and a piezo to the bow and just use this like the original 2box hi hat? i am a bit confused....

hey guys thank you all for your suggestions and input. i really appreciate it.
Jman, you are my god. you were actually the first one that came to my mind. i cant think of a viable way though, to buy from you. customs have been real strickt in the last year, i will need to pay double of what your triggers actually cost.... ouch... i will pm you later on, but... bloody customs...

so. for starters let me say that i have the diy box a great guy from this forum made (dont remember the name, sorry). so right now i am using a cy-5 as hi hat. so there will be no problem.
i am concerned though about what you say guys, about triggers and piezos. and i am also a bit confused.

concerning the ride.
i was thinking to add a switch on bell, a switch on edge and a piezo on bow. But if i understand correctly, this wouldnt work on 2box brain? i would need the Zourman Ride conversion module? (will have to check how much this costs).
in order to avoid this, i would need to simply add a piezo on bow and switch on edge and i am set? is this the correct way, to be compatible with our brain?

because i am using a  cy5 hi hat, i think hi hat would be easier to do right?  i simply add a switch on edge and piezo on bow and i am set?
thank you for your inputs beforehand, guys.

Jman thank you also for teh cymbals from aliexpress you suggested. they are indeed supercheap. BUUUUT. the shipping costs are as high as the cymbals themselves. plus taxes..... i am sad.

since most of you guys may have used some low volume cymbals, anyone has any opinions on them?
i read that l80 are better than sabian quiet tone. in my mind i am thinking about millenium still cymbals. there is also a chinese brand named chang that might be another good option, but i am towards millenium. unless i decide to go for 2 l80 cymbals. and pay a bit more.

regarding the plastic rim i have seen in some pictures. is cymgard the best option, or there could be others that might do the job? ebay may be a good place for me to check...

and lastly, from your experience, when tightening the ride, butting around a guard etc, it is low volume right?
cheers guys

ps. jman you have a pm
ps2. guys, how big piezo do you use? 12mm 15mm18mm?
thank you

ps3. a more serious question that came to my mind.
right now with the classic mod many of us have, i am using a roland cy-5 as hi hat. a single one.
so, for hi hat should i place the edge trigger on the bottom of the top cymbal or on the top, of the top cymbal. because if i place it in the bottom of the top cymbal, wouldnt that mean that the sound would choke when closing the hi hat with my foot? but if i place it on top, it may break? (would a cymguard protect it? cheers

Burning when you mentioned the Zildjian low volumes with a separate brain. I have them with Jeans triggers and they are plug and play with 2 box drumit 3 and drumit 5  . You use an adapter supplied by Jman. I only use the cymgard on my top hi hat cymbal. The cymbals are already super quiet for metal

when you say jeans triggers, i suspect it is a typo and you mean jmans triggers. well this was my first thought. my only concern is that they will be shipped from usa to greece. this means i will have to pay a lot of customs taxes (unfortynately the post offices have become real strict with this...) and also the shipping will most probably be a lot. the cost would skyrocket. that is my concern and that is why i am thinking and asking about alternate scenarios.

and last but not least, where can i find that rubber round thing that you can put on the edge of real feel cymbals to make them more silent? any ideas? cheers guys

something else. could i just find 2 cheap real feel cymbals (cymbals with holes) (without triggers), and fit in them jman triggers to make hats and ride? would that be easier? anyone can suggest any real feel cymbals (just them no triggers), that are cheap?