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Well I found my problem. It had nothing to do with the module thank goodness. I run my system thru a mixer and have a rack EQ and a limiter. It was the limiter settings causing the issue. When going thru headphones I did not have the problem so that pointed me to my sound system. The good thing is I learned a lot about the module as well as the correct limiter settings for my setup. As usual the culprit is usually something simple in the chain of the signal processing. The only thing I wish the the module had was some reverb and phase effects but still very happy with it. I also think the bus sub mixing could use some work.

Using newer 16” Alesis 3 zone ride, and newer Alesis 14” 3 zone ride for crashes. CyPSS or CyPSB works best. (Not Stike cymbals) Tried all cymbal type settings.Also using all Lauren drums. What is interesting though are the kits I created in AD2 and put on the card are not near as noticeable as the factory kits. I don’t think it’s a midi issue either because when I hook up to my computer via a midi cable, turn Local off, and trigger AD2, everything works fine. Even thought my kick trigger may have been a little “hot”  but tested it with a different pad connected to the kick input with no difference. It’s more like the sound engine won’t generate a kick and cymbal sound decay simultaneously. As the cymbal sound decays and the kick is triggered, the kick interrupts the cymbal decay momentarily each time it’s triggered creating a kind of cymbal echo effect for each beat of the kick and not letting the cymbal ring and decay as it should or does without the kick interruption. As said before not nearly as pronounced (just barely) on kits created from AD2. Maybe a firmware update is in order? I have not tried it thru headphones yet or bussed thru channels 3 and 4, only the entire mix thru outs 1 and 2. Thats the last step I can think of.

Note: AD2 kits were created using Lustar software.

New Drummit3. Had it for 8 months. Been doing it all along.
Tried turning crosstalk off. I have tried about everything I can think of thus the post. What is strange to me is it only happens with the kick and snare. It’s almost like the midi notes for the kick and/or snare are triggering a midi rapid decay event on the ride or the poly sounds generated are interfering with the ride. Another thing I noticed is when hitting a Tom and the ride at the same time, even though the ride rings and decays correctly, there is a very slight increase in the ride volume vs when playing it solo.
Also I have the Jman32gb card mod. Installed it when I bought the module so can’t send it in.

Whe playing the ride and kick simultaneously, the ride decays as though it’s being cut off. Also happens when playing the snare and ride together. Doesn’t happen with any other pads, ride rings and decays correctly. I have swapped cables, changed samples, adjusted settings etc. but to no avail. Anyone else experience this or any ideas?

We all started at the beginning and grew from there. It does take some time but will eventually come together. If you don’t understand something, do research, ask questions like your doing and don’t give up until you do understand it. Some things will make your head hurt at first but that’s where perseverance pays off. The journey is some of the best part of it all and you will get a better sense of accomplishment as well.  Once you get it, the real fun begins.
You should still check out the link to the Logic tutorials and watch the first few. They will help you understand how recording to most DAW’s work. With Cakewalk it will be somewhat similar, just different menus, some lingo, etc. and not as much capabilities. If you decide to try the iPad, Auria Pro is very powerful and a great DAW. It’s only about $40 but also worth it. They have excellent support, updates etc. link is http://auriaapp.com. I have an iConnect Audio4 audio interface that works really well with an iPad or iPhone as well as any computer, laptop, desktop, Windows or Mac. Highly recommend it. Link is http://iconnectivity.com. With it an iPad becomes an instrument itself by downloading synth apps like Sunrizer , Animoog, ThumbJam etc. and record your drum tracks or hook up a midi keyboard controller and control the synth apps. Arpeggiators are fun to use.  ;DAlso, you can use the iPad version of GarageBand , a dumbed down version of Logic, but I prefer Auria Pro for an iPad. With the iConnect hooked up to a good sound system, it really shines. So again, take your time, read and learn. Lots of tutorials on YouTube. There is a lot to learn but it will open up a whole new and creative world to you. Enjoy.

You didn’t say if your laptop is windows or Mac. If it is a Mac Logic Pro X is one of the best DAW’s by far to learn. It cost about $200 and worth every penny and is every bit as good as Pro Tools (probably the best Windows based DAW) but at a fourth of the cost. They are both pro level but are easy to learn the basics. It’s all the advanced stuff that has a fairly steep learning curve but well worth it in the long haul. I use Logic and have tried most others but always come back to Logic. The link below is to one of the best series of tutorials on Logic by far and they’re free. I have saved them all to my iPad for references when I can’t remember something because there is so much and many ways to achieve something.There are somewhere around 80+ but many are for plugins etc.
https://m.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLXmi76euGSyzX8KMPAHJPyOSZy5w4CsV9
Have fun.

What computer are you using, Mac or Windows and what processor and how much ram?

Try page 22 in the manual. Lustar app as well is the best way using the DSsound tuner. Comes with the app embedded in on of the folders when downloaded. Did you get the midi and latency problems solved?

You can buy a an sd card and load the files from the 2box site. Just make sure it is a quality sd card. I recommend getting Jman’s 32gb sd card mod since you will have to open the box anyway to replace the old one. One thing to consider though, if it’s not the card and you open it up you could have a warranty issue.Something to consider. I bought mine new and installed the mod before I even fired up the box. Works great.

https://www.lustark.com/  This software is well worth it. It will allow you to create and load SD3 kits directly into the module. Also a lot easier to manage files and module settings. No need to go thru computer for live playing thru SD3. To record you will still need to set things up as previously mentioned. Also recommend Jman's 32gb card upgrade.

https://support.focusrite.com/hc/en-gb/categories/200693675-Tutorials

Computer is good. There is midi clock, midi sync etc. There are different midi timing protocols. Most don’t apply to your situation but you need to familiarize yourself with them especially when you start using protools. Like I said before, read up on midi, what it is, what it does and how it works. Midi.org is a great place to learn about midi. Dig in to that site then go back into your settings and you will understand what you are looking at. YOU NEED TO READ IT until you understand it. Hear is a link to what midi sync is. http://www.songstuff.com/recording/article/midi_sync/. It really is not that complicated. Read the manual to SD3. Read the manual for the focusrite. READ THE MANUALS.

Midi ports are not physical ports on the laptop, they are setup thru the midi mapper app in Windows 10. https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/84817/using-the-midi-mapper. Midi will come from the usb connection between the focusrite and computer. Make sure your input and output source is the focusrite and defiantly not media player. As for volume, check your focusrite software and make sure that the analog outs going to your sound system are setup correctly and the volume level is appropriate. Also check the gain settings in SD3 if there are any, not just the volume. You want the gain set for each drum to achieve max output when struck at hardest hits. Same way as done within the module without clipping (digital clipping occurs at 0 dbs). Not real familiar with SD3. Check the buffer settings in SD3 and the focusrite. The lower they are, the less latency but will require more processing power. Your computer needs at least 8 mg of ram and a fast processor (at least a dual core is recommended also). Latency problems will result from slow processsors, not enough ram memory, or high buffer settings usually above 512.  If buffers are set at 256 and the computer is slow, there WILL be delayed results or blank outs because the computer is trying to catch up. If you are using a fast computer, then it will be just a matter of getting the settings right through out the system. One other thing is which device is set as the master clock for midi, the computer, module or the focusrite. It can only be one. Another settings item within each item.

No need for midi to usb cable. Just get a standard midi din cable. Plug it in to the di3’s midi out and to the focusrite midi in. Plug the focusrite usb to the computer. The usb connection will handle the midi coming from the di3. Make sure you set up the computer to use the focusrite as it’s input and output audio, not the computer’s internal audio. Also set up your computer midi port/ ports to recieve midi signals from the focusrite. You will need to research a tutorial on how to set up the ports. Mac is fairly simple. Not sure about Windows, may need drivers. The di3 is somewhat strange the way the default midi channels (not midi port) are setup in the module. It has them set on channel 2 (16 midi channels are available). The industry standard for the midi drum channel is channel 10. I would advise changing them all to channel 10 in the module. As an example you can plug in a midi keyboard controller into the focusrite and assign it midi channel 1 in protools or a stand alone VST. Create a midi track in protools and choose an instrument for that channel I.e. a piano, synths, guitars, horns or even drums. There are thousands.  Midi controlled VST’s (or Logic au’ s don’t care what device is sending a command as long as the software is receiving a midi command and responds with the sound assigned to it. That’s why you can have multiple different controllers assigned to different tracks each on their own midi channel.  Once you get all that setup, open the software you want to use. If using superior drummer directly (you can do that), you will need to make sure it is using midi channel 10 on the correct port from the focusrite. Also make sure the audio out is set to the focusrite. Or you can open protools and open an instance of superior drummer within protools. Again make sure the ports are correct and assign midi channel 10 to the drum tracks and the protools audio outs to the focusrite. The module (now acting as a midi controller on channel 10) will trigger the computer with the appropriate midi command, the computer software (superior drummer in this case) will recieve it  and trigger the appropriate sound I.e. the snare chosen in Superior drummer will sound when you hit your snare pad as long as it is mapped correctly. Most drum VST software let you choose the module you are using during the setup so the mapping lines up correctly to a chosen pad.Snare to snare, Tom 1 to Tom 1 etc. Sometimes you may have to map a few things individually. The di3 manual gives you the midi notes (0-127) that correspond to each trigger output. Sometimes it’s displayed like notes on a keyboard. The superior drummer software will have a learn function when assigning midi notes and pads if necessary.
One other thing. You do not need to use the analog outputs of the module into the focusrite for this scenario. Midi will trigger the software which will send the sound via usb to the  focusrite and from the focusrite analog audio outs to the sound system. If you do plug the analog audio outs from the module into the focusrite , you CAN get both sounds, one from the module and the one from the computer VST so you would need to mute one or the other. Depends how you have set up the mix in the focusrite. If you don’t want to use the VST (Superior drummer etc) and want to record sounds directly from the module to protools, this can be done by using the analog connections from the module into the focusrite analog inputs. The focusrite will still need the usb connection to the computer but not the midi din connection. You then select audio tracks from within protools, instead midi VST tracks. You are now limited to the number of audio (wav)drum tracks based on the outputs from the module. In this case 6 from the di3. Since your focusrite has more inputs then the di3’s outputs, you can connect other instruments I.e. guitars, vocals etc. and create more audio tracks. Protools can have about as many tracks as you can imagine both audio wav and midi in the same recording. It can combine tracks and bus them, create stacks etc. Just the tip of the iceberg. Protools has a very steep learning curve and I suggest getting a good reference book for it. It’s a great program.
Now with all that said you are just going to have to dig into it all and figure it out for yourself. Do the research, read all the manuals, look up tutorials and best of all experiment. It will open up a whole new world in music. Youtube is loaded with tutorials on Protools,  Superior Drummer, setting up midi in Windows or Mac etc. Do the research, I can only help with understanding the concepts. This is a very detailed explanation but I think you may have need of it to get you started.

And can I disable all other sounds going to the phones?  I only see Bus 1 to 4?

I am not sure you fully understand how the buses and analog outs work as well as midi. There are only 4 buses for analog. There are 6 analog outs. Channels 1 and 2 are the main outputs, 3 and 4 are outputs that recieve audio from buses 3 and 4. You can assign anything you want to 3 and 4 but they are tied to the bus. Channels 1 and 2 can be direct outs from the entire mix or can be assigned
to buses 1 and 2. You assign what pad goes to what bus or any combination. The last 2 analog outs are the headphone outs. They recieve the entire mix the same as the direct outs. You don’t assign or disable anything going to the headphones since it gets everything (the mix). You just turn the faders down for what you don’t want to hear. The faders control what is heard in the mix not on the buses. Not to be confused with the volume controls for each pad or the gain for that matter. When assigning things to a bus, you are basically isolating those instruments from the mix and sending only those signals to the buses assigned output. You are not removing them from the overall mix. Thus since the headphones only recieve the entire mix you can hear it all unless the instrument not wanting to be heard is faded out. Look at a real mixer board and the channels vs the buses vs the faders etc. Di3 is electronically setup that way.
The Midi out has absolutely nothing to do with the analog outs. Read up on what midi is and how it works. I then think you will have a better understanding of it all. Must understand the basics first. Your focusrite is a good audio interface and has all the capabilities you need to produce good sound. The di3 has a good sound card as well so remember when plugging in to the interface you are using the interfaces sound card. The only time it is necessary to use the interface is when recording to a computer using analog outs or using the interface as a midi i/o to trigger VST’s and/or record midi tracks and sending the computer outputs to a sound system.