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having THRU on makes a midi loop , that can cause an overflow in the midi buffer of the module , mostly when there are many notes played at the same time . This could explain the "not all the time"   ... IMO you wont have the problem any more

You can maybe turn MIDI THRU off  in the module MIDI settings ...

do someone know if this card is compatible ? 

SDHC 32 Go SanDisk Ultra  80 Mo/s, Classe 10 FFP

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I was hoping it was delayed cause they were adding more inputs

I really wish they would have used those 2 B cymbal inputs as one more cymbal and one more tom input and only had 1 B input for the three zone ride as I am sure we all do. They don't need to do much more in the sounds department with the open system which is awesome even 10 or so years later. Just give us more inputs!

More inputs would say more sounds to produce by the module , and i guess the sound engine is already at it's maximum ... 

it looks like a td9 kit upgraded with a 2BOX module ....

So IN-heads are the best choice ....

Maybe Aquarian/ alternate mode  in head system could be the best hybrid system ... but it s espensive as you have to buy a box to be able to plug them to the 2BOX module ....
They have built in FSR sensors , so you dont have to damp the head .

With acoustic heads + piezo triggers , you always have to damp the resonance quite a lot ,  and crank up the mask time to avoid double triggering and crosstalk ....
You get poor triggering and quite poor sounding toms ...

FSR dont have those issues , you can leave them undamped , and there s no crosstalk .

you can use EQ for the whole kit , or for one single drum .... but there's not an Eq for each channel .

hi ...

For a ride cymbal , a bow or edge sound , cut by a bell sound would be much more unnatural IMO ...

For toms and snare i agree with you ...

You should try to set LXTR to "high" or "Vhigh" on the rim .. This should help . Also you can raise the treshold a bit on the HEAD .

probably in the manual , page 10 ...

i m quite sure you cant , but you can use a tom input to do that if you need so , and use the Kick input for a mono tom or mono cymbal .

maybe you have some rubber or glue residue between the sensor and the rubber edge ...

So there is no regular mesh head that can be changed when worn out?

No , it s a regular meshhead , you can use other brands if you want ...

Thanks for the review! The rim hotspot is a no-go for me.
Is the rim softer than a regular rim with rubbertrim? Or is it actually a metal rim with rubber on it?

thanks

the pad is made of 2 plastic circles ... the rim is protruding from the hoop part and is covered with a rubber rim .

But there is other news...

Yesterday i removed the meshhead to have a look . I found that the rosette is screwed to the drum , an that there are 3 more sets of holes every Quarter of the pad ...
So i set the mount so the sensor is at 12'o'clock facing me . Like this it is a bit like a 2box pad .

The pad reacts the same for the head , and the rim hotspoting is gone ... 
Of course you have to raise the rim gain a bit to compensate . 
To be honest , there is still a difference depending on where you hit the rim , but just a little .

In fact it is a bit "coldspotting"now  ... You have a bit less signal when you hit 6'o'clock  than 3'o'clock , maybe 2 or 3 dbs , but it s not a problem IMO .

so the td17 i bought came later than i thought . I have if for 2 week  now and i can give my first impressions about the PDX12 ..

I used it mostly with the roland module , and yesterday i tried it with the Drumit5 .

The pad is large and feels solid enough . The head is 12" but the overall diameter is more like an 13/14" regular snare drum   .

The head is triggering well and as it s a side mounted piezo , there is no hotspoting . The sensor is the same than the PDX8 .

Noise level is low , on head and also for the rim , covered with a rubber coating .

I didnt tear it down , but it looks like there is a regular mesh head inside the pad , not the white plastic rim thing they have done on the latest PDX8 series  . (On those pdx8 , you cant use a regular meshhead replacement because the head is glued to this white donut ...  )


The pad isnt too hot for the Drumit5inputs , i used PP snare preset for head  , linear curve , gain 1 , threshold 48 and it feels ok . RIM gain 1 ,curve linear  thresh 38 . So not a lot of exotic tweaking ...

To have a nice HEAD/RIM separation , i set LXTR to HIGH for the head , and vHIGH for RIM . Mask time 3 for RIM , No mask time for HEAD .

The only downside for me is the rim triggering . It triggers well , but it s not even ... it s clearly hotspoting when you hit at 6'o'clock , where the sensor is .
The difference between 6'o'clock and 3'o'clock is 5 to 8 db . 

Also , if you dont set the threshold a bit high  and don't use the LXTR thing , the rim is triggered sometimes when you hit the head hard with a tight meshhead . It should be less sensitive with a lower tuning if you use it as a tom . But with LXTR it s ok .

I thing maybe i ll try to add another Rim  piezo  , somewhere at 3'o'clock to get more even triggering , but for the moment it s good enough to practice on .

So , this cheap Roland pad is quite cool for the money and is totally usable with a DRUMIT 5 .  This will make a brilliant tom , floor tom or side snare .

For a main snare , it s ok , but i  would prefer a converted snare with a side mounted trigger inside and piezos on the shell for RIM .