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Hi,

From my perspective I see IPS touchscreen rather as disadvantage.

Knob plus small, bright/high contrast screen obviously is much quicker solution for kit selection in a live performance than trying with sweaty fingers to move/repeatedly press on a small scrollbar on the side of the display.
Also, it seems there is some delay after pressing soft buttons on the screen of module.

16 outputs is a good selling point though.

Well, after quite a busy week I can share some more of my findings about Transcend Class 6 and also about the 'green' King ston Class 10 32 GB SD10V card.

General conclusion: the problem I described in my previous post, was Transcend card itself (not the extender cable, not the OS compatibility) as it's performance started to degrade over time. It isn't stable enough to use it as a mission critical resource. It can be used for training, but be ready, it will choke with samples occasionally - for my daily 1-2 hour evening session at least once it happened.

After using the Transcend card for couple of days I checked it again with HD Tune Pro and results are obvious: now there is visible occasional access time degradation, also bigger difference between min. and max. access time numbers.
1. Two screenshots where you can see the problems



2. Third picture in another day again seems OK.


Then I tried the 'green' Kingston, which Coda found last year.
So far (one week's usage) it looks pretty good. It has a bit higher average access time, but it seems more consistent and there are no delays or stutters. Since the first usage I've changed it's content and added more files but no problems so far.



My conclusion: I would recommend to add Coda's 'green' Kingston 32 GB Class 10 to compatible cards list, but not the Transcend 32GB Class 6.

Hi, I am new here, and already need some help, will introduce my self later on.. 

I bought a used 2box set, and wanted to reset to default setting to standard factory, to start with..

After reading the manual, found i could do this by initialize in the Unit mode setting, so done that..
But cant trigger any sounds from the 2box, and seems that all the kits are also gone?

Where or can I download the basic factory map for the 2box?

Hi,

Greetings and welcome in Drumit community!

You can download entire module content v1.26 here
http://www.hyperactive.de/support/2box

There are also available for download two latest software versions 1.26 and 1.30.
Cheers,
Janis

[this was observed also on stock kits]

Finally got my Transcend Class 6 32GB (TS32GSDHC6) kindly suggested by nocturnodrummer.
So I did HD Tune Pro benchmark tests, as Coda proposed, comparing with original card. I used the built in SD card reader in my HP ProBook.
The results are very promising:

1. Read benchmark: original 2box ATP_ProMax_Class10 card


2.Read benchmark: Transcend Class 6 32GB card


3.Random Access: original 2box ATP_ProMax_Class10 card


4.Random Access: Transcend Class 6 32GB card


Both cards look to me in this benchmark almost like twins, the Transcend being slightly ahead, so it can be added to compatible cards list.
I will report if it starts to behave differently after filling the card with "heavier" kit samples (currently I've got only one SD2 vst based kit to test which sounded pretty well).

I also did the SD card mod with extender cable, initially looks very promising - no delays, fast OS initial loading.

Update:
Unfortunately, after filling the card with more from 2box site downloaded plus custom samples (about 8,5 GB in total) and with faster playing, like InTheBox posted some time ago, occasionally the sound will halt, only to have all the hits played on top of each other a second later. What's important - this was observed also on stock kits, which prevents suspicions of wrong configurations or too large files of custom sample kits.

I am thinking of possible reasons:
1. The extender cable interference or quality issues (I use the cheap 10 inch extender cable from e-bay) - I will swap back the original card and use it for some time to see if the same problem occurs. If yes - the cable is to blame, if not - the card is guilty.

2. The issues with Transcend card itself - I've ordered the green Kingston 32GB Class10 card which Coda advised as compatible. Is this card still OK after using it for some months, Coda?

3. Some OS logical compatibility issues - unlikely though (I can't define it more exactly, e.g. OS is getting unstable when total number of files on memory card exceeds 999 files?) - if problems occur only after filling the card over 4 GB/ or above certain number of files, it should also be easily checked.

Any other thoughts on this?

OK, thanks. When I'll get the card I will try to benchmark it against original 2box card.

If you value your sanity, you won't buy memory cards off evilbay. If you ever went through a complaint procedure with a seller and tried to get your money back from paypal, you'll understand what I mean.

OK, thanks, Coda
I will try the Transcend then - at least it is locally distributed. What software you use btw for testing SD cards?

Rgds, Janis

Got answers from both Lexar card ebay sellers - the 633X comes from UK and is in original packaging, but there is no information about access time benchmarks, the 133X comes from China and is in bulk packaging, though the seller says it is genuine, I am not very sure about it.

Have any of you bought a genuine Lexar Professional 16GB/32GB 133X in bulk packaging through ebay?
There were JMan's post some time ago to beware of counterfeits...

StudioG4, nocturnodrummer, what the module initialization time with Transcend card is about, is it any close to original 2box card? It looks like I will go for Transcend Class 6 card, it will set me back only 11 Euros anyway.

Your answer today looks like a miracle to me
I'm in decision process right know and can't decide between your Transcend (TRANSCEND SDHC CLASS 6 32GB, TS32GSDHC6), Lexar Professional 32 GB 633X Class 10 and hopefully genuine that famous Lexar Professional 32GB 133X.
So, if your Transcend has been success story, I will wait for your benchmarks 

Hi all friendly e-drummers,

This could be useful for those of you, who continue using stock 2box Hihat stand and find its spring too weak.

I've been reading different topics about hihat settings, calibration and problems and mostly the first suggestion was to start with replacement the stock hihat stand as it's spring seems too weak for proper speed pedal work.
When I saw Drumit Five kit for the first time, it's the clean look of the hihat stand/ pedal that I liked about it first. Clearly, I was not very excited about the idea to swap it when I got my the kit, especially since the rod diameter for my IronCobra hihat stand is smaller anyway and doesn't fit at all.
So, the only option for me was to try to actually improve the existing

I didn't find any instructions or topics about taking to pieces the stand, that's why after finishing my job I decided to post my experience and pictures to make it easier for people wishing to do the same. Sorry for my poor English, if someone can't understand something, just PM me. Also sorry for some pictures being blurry, just was trying to take them with one hand during the process.

What I did
1) disassemble the stand
All you need basically is a hand tool with 9 mm socket (Tool 1) and a 10 mm wrench (Tool 2):
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qqaz6k4lg6uczpf/IMG_0196.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gvtx1vtas1spijl/IMG_0197.JPG?dl=0

a)After you take off the upper tube of the stand and unscrew the upper part of rod, you need to take the hand tool with 9 mm socket and put it on the upper nut (inside the tube) of the lower part of rod.
b)Now holding the lower part of stand in one hand (or better even pressing it against ome hard surface) you have to press with Tool 1 the spring down until in the lower part of the rod just above pedal below the two pieces of felt you see the 10 mm nut. Picture is after disassembly, bet you can see the 10 mm nut between felt and U type clamp:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1tfjdtvi5b7xxhn/IMG_0192.JPG?dl=0
c) Using your third hand or some vice you have to grip and hold from moving the U type clamp which holds the pedal chain and screws on the end of rod.
d) Still holding the upper nut with Tool 1 + having fixed the U type clamp, use Tool 2 to screw the 10 mm nut a little bit UPWARDS (clockwise) - just enough to release from grip the U type clamp.
c) Put down the Tool 2 and still keeping fixed the U type clamp, unscrew from it the rod by screwing the upper nut with Tool 1 anticlockwise.
d) Unscrew the 10 mm nut from the lower part of rod using Tool 1 and Tool 2. Don't lose both felts after removing nut.
e) Remove the rod together with spring from the lower tube (be careful, it is greasy).
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2sic3ihz5o8wfik/IMG_0188.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dd4uwrqzbnyzmkk/IMG_0189.JPG?dl=0
To put everything back, just do all the opposite way
It would be wise thought to clean the rod and renew the grease on it before putting back if it looks dry or gets some dirt on it during process.

2) Improve the spring action
I decided to go the simplest way (some of you could maybe choose to replace the spring with the firmer one) - to put some distancer between the tip of spring and the tip of lower tube, which is basically what the hihat spring adjustment does, only in this case it is more or less permanent. So, the bigger is this distance, the firmer will be the pedal and vice versa.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/sa6dkqsejvd0z9q/IMG_0190.JPG?dl=0

What you need is some gasket/nut with thickness according your preferences for spring resistance and with diameter small enough to just fit in lower tube but big enough to stop the spring. I used about 2 cm thick nut for this.
f) if you have no complaints about other things (like the swaying upper part of rod), just put the gasket/rod in the lower tube and assemble the stand back. If you (like me) also want to stop the upper part of rod from swaying, go to step 3)

3) fix the swaying rod
For this you will have to take to parts the lower part of rod, so
g) the spring and the gasket will have to be removed from the lower part of rod.
h) clean the grease from the rod (I will admit, I did manage without doing it  ).
i) fix the nut connecting both parts of rod in some vice so that the small hole, which goes through it, isn't covered.
j) using some small steel bit (I used a hex key from my tool set) knock out the small stopper from within the hole
k) unscrew the nut from the rod (anticlockwise)
l) take some plumber's flax / hemp and wrap it clockwise around the thread in a thin layer. Apply the plumber's paste afterwards
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5xqocfignj5liih/IMG_0193.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jdrrx0aslkhtkfu/IMG_0195.JPG?dl=0
m) carefully screw back on the nut, make sure the hole through the nut is visible at the end of process.
n) using pliers press the small stopper (it has a cleft along the line) and press it back in the hole. After some distance you can use a hammer to complete it.

That's it,  now you can assemble everything back.

The results are the complete success
1) the pedal is much firmer (some would like it maybe less firm)
2) The rod doesn't sway
3) I can play much faster and more precise
4) Hopefully, some of you won't ditch the cute looking original 2box hihat stand

and thanks others of you for sharing your great ideas!

Very nice work! I have to admit that I purchased a 2nd hand MkI rack for cheap so my investment in the rackpipes was low. All together we come up with creative solutions. My 2Box is almost 4 years old now and still going strong.

Thank you for good words! It wasn't so difficult once you showed the way
I am learning from you and other drumming and DIY heroes, God bless you all.

And thanks once more to 2box team for creating so open and powerful instrument, I am getting more and more involved ... OK in love with it

Here we go. I got my hands on an extra curved front bar. Probably any curved bar will do (Gibraltar) as long as it is about 1 meter long (roughly taken). And 2 Rack-pipe clamps (SC-GRSRA) to connect the extra frontbar to the vertical bars. Pictures explain. Might have to fiddle a bit to get everything at the right high but it is fairly easy.

Now, here is the secret. I used an old bass-drum mount for a cowbell (Pearl but the Gibraltar equivalent is SC-268R BD) slotted in a Power Rack Multi-clamp from Gibraltar (SC-GPRMC). Just strip the mount until you have the rod and use the rubber side to fix your kick in position. Picture is taken from above.

IMHO this is the most solid solution for a wobbly kick. I took the pic's in a hurry. Feel free to ask for more details.

Untitled by murgenetemplar, on Flickr

Untitled by murgenetemplar, on Flickr

Untitled by murgenetemplar, on Flickr

PS the Pearl Rack in the back is not doing much except carrying my GEN16 cymbals.

Hi Murgen,

I am a newbie in this community and I am glad to be here and read all this useful information and learn from others.
As I also was looking for solution to wobbly kick, I came up on your post, and I like your solution. Unfortunately, I don't have any spare rack bars, so I decided to find a solution without adding one.
The results I would like to share with anyone looking for solution to this kick problem.
It was not meant as a permanent solution, rather a small experiment as I was borrowing components needed elsewhere in my kit (e.g. crash cymbal).

Here are some pictures, hopefully they will be shared correctly:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/cerm6xkh9r8aqfo/IMG_0161.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ocnmhhmzoca33pv/IMG_0162.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/58rzm0cvob0xjbt/IMG_0163.jpg?dl=0

This is what I used:
http://www.thomann.de/intl/millenium_multiclamp.htm
1. Millenium Multi-Clamp 29 EUR

http://www.thomann.de/intl/2box_drumit_rackclamp.htm
2. 2box Drumit Rack Clamp 39 EUR

http://www.thomann.de/intl/2box_drumit_cymbalholder.htm
3. 2box Drumit Cymbal Holder 33 EUR

The total investment is about 100 EUR, which is less than 140 EUR for original 2box rackpipe (long).

The positive: the kick is rock solid with less hardware.
What I didn't like: the fixing kick to the rack doesn't completely eliminate transferring of vibration to other rack elements, just makes them considerably less. Therefore, I will look for standalone kick design for permanent solution.

Speaking of this one, of course there could be some improvements, e.g. as for using the cymbal arm, probably the brainholder arm will be even more suitable:
http://www.thomann.de/intl/2box_drumit_five_brainholder.htm
3. 2box Drumit Five Brainholder 24.90 EUR

There are also other cheaper options, that could be checked out to use as a clamp like these below, I just had this Millenium clamp at hands. These need to be checked before ordering, as I am not 100% sure if those will exactly fit (don't know their exact measurements):
http://www.thomann.de/intl/dixon_pahpmsp_percussion_klammer.htm
1. Dixon PA-HPM-SP Percussion Clamp   24.90 EUR

http://www.thomann.de/intl/sonor_mh_bdpa_bd_percussion_adapter.htm
1. Sonor MH-BDPA BD Percussion Adapter 26 EUR

Its written right there on the website you downloaded the zipfile from. At least it was when I last looked a few weeks ago. Same problem, different guy.

Hi, I've had the same problem. When I used Mac, it couldn't open the zip file with the password provided. Then I tried PC, and without problems it unzipped the folder.

Rgds,
Janis R.

Hi all,

Mine is 5431, got it from UK, perhaps the only one in Latvia (?). Previous owner bought in June 2015.

Janis R