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I tried explaining, he thinks newer is better. But all in vain. On the other hand ust cool of him to let me test it. Now we crossed out another card from our list. I wish we could just plug a ssd instead mimic does that and it works but the price is another story.

Well, the seller claims that it is a better card and i can test it if i want to. I tested it and it's worse than its predecessor. I will post the results later. It was about 1ms of access time and it was not constant. So i guess I have to return it.. Im going for the lexar 1000x now. I will be smarter this time and ask seller to make sure that he sells me the correct card. Sigh...

Hey guys, has anyone tried this card? I ordered the green one but they send me this... I dont know if I should return it.. I will contact the seller about this. Maybe they can replace it free of charge..

I've just realised that Deve is not a name...  Deve Loper. developer. ugh, after all those years my brain finally conected the dots.

I have a strange feeling that drumit 3 will be the last 2box module.. They are just to small to survive the mimic pro. When pearl introduce the multilayer editor it can be a tough opponent to 2box. Without some kind of revolution it will be very difficult to attract new customers. The ready-made libraries would be a hit in my opinion. The majority of people want to just play the drums. Dial the sound some more or even pay for finished presets made by professionals similar to vex kits for roland. It is all possible with mimic pro. 2box will always be for drum nerds

Well, it plays well at home.. no more mistriggering. But i discovered that when i pinch the hi hat and hold it, the hi hat position doesnt change. But when pinching it few times in a row, I get occasional abrupt chick sounds.

I'll try it tonight. I play wedding gigs almost every saturday and sunday and last thing I want to do on Monday is to unpack all my of poop There are still laying around in my car.

I cant agree with you. I cut the video short but in the full version you will see that the hi hat will stop opening eventually. If that's normal behavior then how am I suppose to trigger edge sound? Hitting edge of the cymbal is the same as pinching the edge with fingers.

The hi hat opens but I'm not moving it even a millimeter. And it closes when I release the pressure on the edge switch. The same thing happens when I'm playing. I can play bow zone(zone 4) without problem, but when I hit the edge with a stick, a get a chick sound - Zone 9. I can't trigger zone 8, which is edge sound. While playing and hitting the edge, the "virtual" movement of the hi hat is so fast that it doesn't even detect movement on the calibration page. But when I pinch the hi hat and hold it, it is open. When I release, it closes. It's definitely not normal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajD_J7FYGhs

Here's the full video. Its working not properly until 8 second into the video. Then I try to pinch it few times, the hi hat stays closed ! Then at 12 second I finally move the pedal to do the chick with the pedal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0XikuiepTSI&feature=youtu.be

Hope the link works. As you can see when I hold the edge the hi hat stays open. I'll start by trying a different cable.. But I'm quite sure that's not it.

And the worst thing is that it happens occasionally so it will be hard to diagnose.. I will try to capture it on the video and send that directly to 2box.  unfortunately I dont know anyone with a 2box to test things out on a different module..

The problem is getting worse with every gig... I discovered a strange thing. When I pinch the edge of the hi hat with my fingers, the controller opens the hi hat fully! It even shows on the calibration page. And when i release the edge, the hi hat closes abruptly and that makes a chick sound. A dont understand how the edge switch have something to do with the hi hat controller. It just doesnt make any sense to me! The cymbal piezo and edge switch shouldnt influence the cymbal position.

Hi Dave, thank you for your input on the subject. Maybe you have an idea on what can possibly cause the problems with the hall sensor? Mine broke two times, never during playing. I may be able to find the newer version of the board in my house(I'm currently under a house renovation and everything is either hidden or misplaced somewhere) and take a picture to compare what changes 2box has decided to make.

So there is some truth to what I'm thinking. And how's that separation suppose to look like? Sorry for not quoting but my phone cant quite work it out. Do you use different hall sensor than 2box?

Well, for the second time 2box send me a different board! With the newer version number printed on it. And they said that it should resolve the issue. So, there was something wrong with the design. But since I make half of my living playing drums, I can't risk not having a working hi hat on the weekend. I'm now checking my emails and now I remember that the updated circuit board has gone bad too! It was, a "mystery" to the 2box staff But since I developed my own ritual of plugging the hi hat, everything is in order maybe my module has some fault in it?

I've had that issue.. twice! I can give you some advice on how to avoid it in the future. I cant guarantee that it is a 100% correct solution but it works for me. I've noticed that the hi hat sensor never failed during playing so  I concluded that it goes bad either when I power up the module or shut it down. The solution is simple, never turn on/off the module when the hi hat cable is connected to the cymbal! Turn on the module first, and then connect the cable. And the some when turning it off, first disconnect the cable, then hit the button. The hi hat input has voltage in it, so maybe when powering up the module there can be a situation when the voltage is too high(some kind of uncontrolled peak from the adaptor) and it fries the hall sensor (my guess only, I'm not an electronic engineer).