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Oh ... I see
I have no any experiences with acoustic drums unfortunately neither with sound production so did not realize certain factors until you explained now.
But I'm wondering why to offer raw samples as ready- to- use kit rather then to offer a final sounds that match the quality shown in demo..
If the user likes the sounds heard in demo, he will be willing to download the sounds or kit ready to use to expect exactly the same sounds from his module...rather then raw material that needs to be further processed in order to get the quality sounds to match the demo..
Still learning :-)


I wrote to him

I wouldn't complain about the sound not matching exactly to the recorded version, that was kinda the point endre made them. He explains that a lot of the sounds on the 2box kit are so processed with verb and what not that any engineer wouldn't want to use them because you can only add more processing, not take it away. He did however offer 5 kits with varying degrees of processing (just ambience) You have downloaded the DRY kit. I would suggest any one of the kits with room ambience, they're really nice with a long tail at the end of the sample for you to shorten at to your listening taste.

If you're not into post-processing, and you have just the 4gig card, I would find sounds you like first before downloading them on to the module. You might be thinking, "But wait, I can't hear the sounds unless I have them downloaded on the module, which takes time)

Here's how I do it. (Not anymore since the 32gig mod)

All you do is have a .dkit file on your computer and the drumit editor open. When it opens it will say "cannot open kit bank" or something. Go to file/open Kit Bank and open the .dkit file wherever you have saved it. It will most likely say, "missing files" but that doesn't matter.

Using the navigator in kit editor, drag and drop .dsdn sounds into any of the drum channels where you can preview. From there, make a note of which sounds you like in a notepad or something. You can preview velocity by holding down "click" and moving the cursor up and down, down will show you low velocity, higher, max velocity and everything in between.

Once you have a list of sounds you like, upload them onto the module the normal way via usb.

You have just 4 gigabytes to play with, which is enough to have a lot of sounds, but not enough to have them all. So I would probably delete the ones you don't like in favour of the ones you do. It will take time but it's quicker than having to upload to the module, try it on a kit, realise you don't like, then delete next time the module is connected. You have to remember their sample names!

This should make the process of which sounds you like and which sound you don't like a lot quicker and with a result you like.

Oh, one more thing you need to realise with the recording, is that there are live mics to pick up cymbals. But in that there will be bleed from the toms, because he's using mylar head. Now they don't make so much of a note but will give off a transient "attack" which will be picked up by the cymbal mics but will blend in with the sampled sound. This will affect the total mix.

This is partly why I prefer mylar heads to mesh heads live. Endre will verify this himself.

Well the recording was done in a studio and probably went through a bit of post production, compression eq etc, what the module had is the raw sound. The demos of the guy playing didn't specify which kit, but I would have to assume it was the dry kit which was then on mix down put through like I said, compression and eq. You best contact Endre himself to verify that. So in answer to your question, I can tell it's the same kit being triggered but minus the post production.

I have listened to it again and understood what you mean. Button, tom 1 - 3 four times, then again played 1 - 4 four times.

Apart from the gain (sounds too high on first tom, not high enough on 2nd and 3rd) I'd say the sounds are exactly right.

So each tom 4 times played. How many times with the button vs played via pad?

But apart from that, they sound normal. They sound on maximum velocity though, but I'm familiar with these sounds and they sound as I'd expect.
But if the button is playing a different sound to the Triggered sound on the same channel, I can't explain that.

It doesn't sound like you're playing the same sound. The 1st four hits sound like tom 1 whereas the second 4 sound like tom 2.
Same on the enerd kit.

You bought 2box module or a complete kit?

I CANNOT stress enough the best relatively small money you will ever spend on drumit5 will be the 32gig modification which Jman here can help you out with!! 

That's the lastest firmware. There might be some missing files as on the factory initialisation, sounds are no longer available (for various reasons)
If you send me an email, to stephenmackrill@gmail.com, I can send you any files you might be missing (I think I have them all anyway) But beware, all of them in total are too large for the module's 4gb size, unless you have sone the 32gig modification.

Americans often call it "rim clicks" I however have always used the term (unless on this forum for the sake of understanding) side stick.

In any case, you can detach the encoded rim sound from a snare easy and assign a cross stick sound. Just press more, then snare to call up the sound, then find a cross stick sound you'd like. (or any sound you choose) and hey presto!

The button triggers at full velocity (unless you set it lower in system) I think you need to up the gain. It's the same sound after all. Maybe the curve could be a steeper one than the "norm" one too.

I can't comment on the KD-120 as I have never used it, but follow the steps for gain setting on it too (loudest hit registers a -3 db reading)

You should be able to set it fine, you might need more gain, but when you do that, your threshold will need to be raised too.

I too use the intrigg trigger and they're great! BUT you need a lot more gain for it. I have mine set to 17! It's high right, but compared to other triggers I have used (Ddrum, 2box Trigit, Pintech) they are no way as hot, so they need more gain!

On your other thread I have listed a general set up suggestion on how to set your gain, threashold and curve. You're threshold will need to go up too, -48 is the lowest setting and should be set so your lightest tap triggers but below that, it doesn't.

Okay first up, you can hear the rim sounds on channels which have it (Snare, toms) by pressing "more" first then the channel which you want to hear the rim sound.

As for getting total separation of rim and pad trigger setting, this is a tough one with this module, maybe someone else can chime in with their suggested settings. Do you wish to use the rim on the snare for a rimshot or rim clicks? It's hard to have both unless you have a sound assigned to the rim which up until a certain velocity setting is rim click (say up to midi velocity 80) and after rimshot.

But generally, try different cross talk on the snare pad. Start with low and then work up if you need more. Now the problem with this is you might find playing snare and tom 1 simultaneously will result in only tom being played if you are playing the snare at a lowish velocity, not good right?

It's notable to have your gain and threshold settings set right first, if you haven't, here's a guide.

Snare pad, in Unit-tigger page, set gain so that hardest hit (generally your back beat velocity) registers a -3 db in the display. That way a slighter harder than that hit will take it to 0db. Now threshold, your lightest tap (say what you would do if you're ghosting in a pattern) triggers, but below that, it doesn't.

Try with cross talk off and see if this gives you the desired effect.

Bear in mind, when you hit the rim only on an acoustic snare, you'll hear the head too so try not to get too fixated with "seeing" it trigger when in the real world, you'd hear it too.

Another factor is the velocity curve, normal is fine but I find live I have gone to "neg 1" setting and the reverse and also "Pos 1" depending on the situation I was in (what trigger I was using and whether is was comfortable with how it was triggering)

Another option to try (make sure you have the latest firmware 1.30 or later) In it, there's a trigger option called XPAD and XRIM specifically written to combat the better separation for Rim/Head triggering. But I haven't had much experience with this as I am pretty happy with the way the kit plays.

All in all, you can see there are many variables!

Good luck!!