I currently have stock on the Stealth 2Box Hi Hat stand conversion kits for converting a Hi Hat stand or other electronic HH Pedal/Controller into an electronic Hi Hat stand/controller or HH pedal/controller compatible with the 2Box module. With this kit you can use my own Stealth Hi Hat cymbals, or most any other brand electronic Hi Hat cymbal or Electronic cymbal that will mount on a standard Hi Hat stand as a moving Hi Hat system with the 2Box module. Or, if you prefer to use your current electronic HH pedal/controller and a stationary E cymbal with the 2Box module you can do that too.
This is a complete, simple to install kit that works with all or most all acoustic Hi Hat stands. Hi Hat stands that have a metal floor base are great as the control box can mount to the bottom of the base. But if you look at the last picture in this post and further in this thread you will see some simple DIY base plates attached to stands that do not have existing metal bases. The easy to install mounting plate kit takes about 5 minutes to add,and just a few bucks worth of parts required. I also sell that mounting plate kit if you don't have the parts available locally or prefer just to buy the plate kit that can ship together with your order.
So whatever stand you have the Stealth 2Box Hi Hat Stand Conversion kit will work.
The control box attaches with the Velcro, the magnet attaches to the pedal with industrial quality 2 sided peel n stick adhesive. The stand conversion takes a matter of minutes. Very easy to install.
Here's a list of some of the Ecymbals or E HH setups people are using with my Stealth 2Box HH Stand Conversion kit:
Roland Cy-5, Roland Cy-6, Roland Cy-8, Roland VH-11, Roland VH-12, Roland VH-13, Roland FD-7/FD-8 using stationary HH cymbal, ATV AD-H14 (with Drumit 3 or Drumit 5), Alesis ProX Hi Hat and other Alesis cymbals, Pintech E cymbals and E Hi Hats, Yamaha E Hi Hats and E cymbals (a minor mod may be necessary with Yamaha depending on model: http://www.2box-forum.com/index.php/topic,1010.0.html ) and of course my own Stealth "Real" Dual zone HH cymbal set. And that is not a complete list, just some of the well known brands.
The Price: $99 plus shipping. Add $7 to the price if you have a HH stand with no bottom plate and want to add the mounting plate hardware kit.
If interested: Send me a private message including your location and I will quote the shipping price.
DO NOT TRY USING THE ORIGINAL 2BOX HI HAT ALONG WITH MY CONTROL BOX! The original 2Box Hi Hat already has a control board and combining that with a second control board will at best cause inaccurate operation, and improper voltage to both my control box and the orig. 2Box hat board.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4280/35783959485_12e3150f1e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ww79sH)Stlth2BxHHconvkit_zpsf704ccf0 (https://flic.kr/p/Ww79sH) by Jman Stealth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/119814595@N06/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4279/35783960885_950f3075f8_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ww79SR)Stlth2BxHHConvkitbtm_zpsd07382d6 (https://flic.kr/p/Ww79SR) by Jman Stealth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/119814595@N06/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4125/35742368666_dace5fd979_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WsqYXC)3 determine location for magnet (https://flic.kr/p/WsqYXC) by Jman Stealth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/119814595@N06/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4107/35742362176_a5a14ca17e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WsqX2J)5 peel n stick magnet to the spot you marked (https://flic.kr/p/WsqX2J) by Jman Stealth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/119814595@N06/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4071/35651387301_cefd3d7a3f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WjoFnp)Controller on plate (https://flic.kr/p/WjoFnp) by Jman Stealth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/119814595@N06/), on Flickr
Hello JMan,
This looks interesting. Do you think it could also work with a Roland FD-7 hi-hat controller? I've been toying with the idea of taking apart the 2box hi-hat and fitting the sensor to the FD-7. This would allow me to use the FD-7 to control both my Roland SPD-20 and the 2box also, maybe simultaneously, but I fear my DIY skills may let me down.
Thanks,
Hatul.
Quote from: HiHat on November 17, 2013, 12:34:15 AM
Hello JMan,
This looks interesting. Do you think it could also work with a Roland FD-7 hi-hat controller? I've been toying with the idea of taking apart the 2box hi-hat and fitting the sensor to the FD-7. This would allow me to use the FD-7 to control both my Roland SPD-20 and the 2box also, maybe simultaneously, but I fear my DIY skills may let me down.
Thanks,
Hatul.
Actually it will work quite nicely under an FD-7
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4207/35742368756_e0061a00ba_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WsqYZb)FD7 2Bx Stlth HH bx (https://flic.kr/p/WsqYZb) by Jman Stealth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/119814595@N06/), on Flickr
Send me a private message if you are interested, thanks, J
Jerry,
how about a Yamaha HH-65?
Does this work equally as well under one of Yammies controllers? Just curious....
Quote from: Dänoh on November 17, 2013, 11:47:37 AM
Jerry,
how about a Yamaha HH-65?
Does this work equally as well under one of Yammies controllers? Just curious....
I don't have one to check, but from the pic it looks like the only space under the pedal is back toward the heel and I doubt there is enough space there for the control box.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4212/35743472436_290b2140f6.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WswD59)YamahaHH65_zps0fa454c4 (https://flic.kr/p/WswD59) by Jman Stealth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/119814595@N06/), on Flickr
The thing to keep in mind though ..... the advantage of a Hi Hat stand over these separate E Pedals is that the experience is much more realistic when the Hi Hat cymbal moves like a normal acoustic Hi Hat during play.
So here is an interesting idea for a Hi Hat stand that could serve for the 2Box and the SPD-S like Hatul mentioned..... If you were to take the PDP/FD stand that I build and have a DIY tutorial for on my website and combine it with the special Stealth 2Box HH control box .... you would really have something :) As a plus, it works in either VH-11/FD mode (compatible with entry level Roland modules up) or that little adapter you see on top of my Stealth HH cymbals enables the stand to work in VH-12 mode for the high end Roland modules too. 8)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4284/34943886714_1ea3bbfde8_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VeSy6q)PDP-FDHHStand_zps420c5a48 (https://flic.kr/p/VeSy6q) by Jman Stealth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/119814595@N06/), on Flickr
Hello JMan,
Sent you a message.
Just to clarify it's an SPD-20 I use and not an SPD-S or SPD-SX but I think they also have a hi-hat controller input - not sure about the SPD-6 though. I think this would be suitable for the SPD-30 also.
That stand looks great. I'm trying to avoid a hi-hat stand though as I only got in to electronics due to space and volume restrictions so that I could have a compact and quiet "kit". The following question got very annoying: Can you play quietly please? >:(
"Ermm no - I'm a drummer" was not appreciated as an answer :)
I've never liked electronics so my original set up was Roland SPD-20 (SPD-8 and SPD-11 before that), FD-7 Hi Hat controller, 2 x PD-7 pads for snare and hi-hat and KD-7 for bass drum. I'm basically trying to replicate that with the 2box as the sound source, via midi, which has stopped me from selling off the SPD-20. It had been languishing in it's case for a long time now because the sounds are mediocre at best and I hated playing it but hopefully the 2box will give the SPD-20 a new lease of life.
I was going to use the SPD-20 for the hi-hat sounds as I never got the 2box hi-hat to work as i wanted. If your conversion kit works as I think then I'll be be able to free up the hi-hat pad and hi-hat controller inputs on the SPD-20 allowing me to have a very compact and gorgeous sounding kit indeed :)
Regards,
Hatul
Quote from: HiHat on November 17, 2013, 11:24:27 PM
Hello JMan,
Sent you a message.
Just to clarify it's an SPD-20 I use and not an SPD-S or SPD-SX but I think they also have a hi-hat controller input - not sure about the SPD-6 though. I think this would be suitable for the SPD-30 also.
That stand looks great. I'm trying to avoid a hi-hat stand though as I only got in to electronics due to space and volume restrictions so that I could have a compact and quiet "kit". The following question got very annoying: Can you play quietly please? >:(
"Ermm no - I'm a drummer" was not appreciated as an answer :)
I've never liked electronics so my original set up was Roland SPD-20 (SPD-8 and SPD-11 before that), FD-7 Hi Hat controller, 2 x PD-7 pads for snare and hi-hat and KD-7 for bass drum. I'm basically trying to replicate that with the 2box as the sound source, via midi, which has stopped me from selling off the SPD-20. It had been languishing in it's case for a long time now because the sounds are mediocre at best and I hated playing it but hopefully the 2box will give the SPD-20 a new lease of life.
I was going to use the SPD-20 for the hi-hat sounds as I never got the 2box hi-hat to work as i wanted. If your conversion kit works as I think then I'll be be able to free up the hi-hat pad and hi-hat controller inputs on the SPD-20 allowing me to have a very compact and gorgeous sounding kit indeed :)
Regards,
Hatul
This Hi Hat conversion kit isn't magic, it just replaces the controller for the 2Box Hi Hat making it possible to use other Ecymbals, and beyond the actual hardware for the 2Box Hi Hat there is a lot that can be accomplished. Several of the stock 2Box Hi Hat dsnds with the latest 1.26 OS work very well. Additionally Hi Hat dsnds built from some of the VST programs with SDSE perform even better IMO. One friend that switched a week or so ago from a Roland TD-20X to the 2Box module with his own kit and the Stealth 2Box HH conv. kit told me the Hi Hat sounds and performance are the best he has experienced on an Ekit which is my own experience too.
Quote from: Jman on November 17, 2013, 01:57:55 PM
I don't have one to check, but from the pic it looks like the only space under the pedal is back toward the heel and I doubt there is enough space there for the control box.
Thanks very much, Jerry! :rock:
This means I maybe will rather 'steer clear' of the HH-65 in further ...erm... 'setup conceptions'.
QuoteThe thing to keep in mind though ..... the advantage of a Hi Hat stand over these separate E Pedals is that the experience is much more realistic when the Hi Hat cymbal moves like a normal acoustic Hi Hat during play.
I'm positive about all you've said is valid indeed.
Though, if space is an issue, it might be better to go with a 'seperate controller/pad' combination.
In addition, I am very drawn towards the club of the 'centered hat / symmetrical kit'
weirdos'... 8)
I think the stand will be a problem; in that scenario!
Quote from: Dänoh on November 18, 2013, 03:19:45 PM
Thanks very much, Jerry! :rock:
This means I maybe will rather 'steer clear' of the HH-65 in further ...erm... 'setup conceptions'.
I'm positive about all you've said is valid indeed.
Though, if space is an issue, it might be better to go with a 'seperate controller/pad' combination.
In addition, I am very drawn towards the club of the 'centered hat / symmetrical kit' weirdos'... 8)
I think the stand will be a problem; in that scenario!
Actually it is no different using a remote Hi Hat stand than a standard HH stand.... just put the control box under the pedal like a regular HH stand and place your Hi Hat cymbals where you choose.
Daniel (fulrmr) uses a remote HH stand.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4035/34944027474_1fb703b229.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VeTgWj)GriffinRemoteHHstand_zps055ad640 (https://flic.kr/p/VeTgWj) by Jman Stealth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/119814595@N06/), on Flickr
Quote from: Jman on November 19, 2013, 03:07:03 AM
Actually it is no different using a remote Hi Hat stand than a standard HH stand.... just put the control box under the pedal like a regular HH stand and place your Hi Hat cymbals where you choose.
Daniel (fulrmr) uses a remote HH stand.
(http://i1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag19/JmanWord/GriffinRemoteHHstand_zps055ad640.jpg) (http://s1296.photobucket.com/user/JmanWord/media/GriffinRemoteHHstand_zps055ad640.jpg.html)
Symmetrical weirdo here ;) just stopping by to say that the remotes are very versatile and although I use the DW with my control box instead of the Pearl...I have heard the Pearl works great...and is a bit less expensive. :)
J, that little "x" on top of the controller, is that sticky tape where you stick the circular magnet or where do you tape the magnet? To the bottom of the pedal?
Also, do you think that this is OK to transport for gigs or does the magnet eventually come loose or the box unvelcros etc...? Maybe it's better for studio use only?
I'm guessing that the little x is where the magnet should come down to and touch possibly? :)
Quote from: Jman on November 13, 2013, 05:18:36 PM
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4125/35742368666_dace5fd979_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WsqYXC)3 determine location for magnet (https://flic.kr/p/WsqYXC) by Jman Stealth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/119814595@N06/), on Flickr
Quote from: Greg the groove on November 24, 2013, 02:19:40 AM
I'm guessing that the little x is where the magnet should come down to and touch possibly? :)
Judging from this picture, it appears Greg is right! :)
I understand where the 'Cymbal' and 'Module' jacks should go to, but what is the '50 ohms' resistor to be plugged into the 'kOhm' jack?
The magnet? ???
Guys, relax ..... when I sell these I also include the step by step picture installation guide and instructions for setup and play .... it really isn't complicated.
The red X on the control box marks where the hall sensor is located inside the box. So the magnet is placed directly above that on the bottom of the HH pedal. The Kohm dial .... is not an input it is simply an adjuster that makes it possible to adjust how "hot" of a signal is sent from the HH cymbal. I added this because some eCymbals are "hotter" than others. Again, all the instructions are included. The Kohm adjustment is really only necessary if your cymbal peaks out the velocity meter even if the sensitivity is set to 0 in the module. 0 is no resistance, 50 is 50Kohm resistance ..... so you have a range between 0 and 50 Kohms of resistance that can be used. It is the type of adjustment (if you even need it) that is only necessary to set once for a particular cymbal.
As far as sticking the magnet to the bottom of the pedal. That stuff is some of the strongest 2 sided adhesive you will ever find. It actually gets stronger and stronger over time .... so once you stick that on you won't have to worry about it whether you gig or not. And if someone is paranoid I have extra magnets and adhesive ....
For gigging the box is installed via industrial Velcro, so you can pull the box for moving the kit if you want and put it back on when setting up. Simple.
These conversion kits are very durable and dependable, I've been using mine for a couple years already. Plus they are never in contact with the foot pedal. During setup you set your top HH cymbals so when completely closed the pedal is still 1/4" to 1/2" above the box. The magnet or pedal will never touch the control box during play. The detection is very good and accurate even for a wide gap between cymbals. You can even set your hats to open an inch or more if you like...... these kits are the shizzzzzzle! They work great... ;D :rock:
Quote from: Jman on November 24, 2013, 03:06:35 AM
Guys, relax ..... when I sell these I also give a step by step picture installation guide.... it really isn't complicated.
LMAO! I literally laughed out loud when I read this! What can I say? I'm a DIY dummy! :)
Quote from: Greg the groove on November 24, 2013, 03:14:40 AM
LMAO! I literally laughed out loud when I read this! What can I say? I'm a DIY dummy! :)
No offense intended my friend :) ;) But I really do try to build all my Stealth conversion kits dummy proof, so even DIY dummies are safe ;D
Quote from: Jman on November 24, 2013, 03:08:57 AM
The Kohm dial .... is not an input it is simply an adjuster that makes it possible to adjust how "hot" of a signal is sent from the HH cymbal. I added this because some eCymbals are "hotter" than others. Again, all the instructions are included. The Kohm adjustment is really only necessary if your cymbal peaks out the velocity meter even if the sensitivity is set to 0 in the module. 0 is no resistance, 50 is 50Kohm resistance ..... so you have a range between 0 and 50 Kohms of resistance that can be used. It is the type of adjustment if you even need it, it is only necessary to set once for a particular cymbal.
Thanks again Jerry!
Actually, my question was due to failing to recognize the potentiometer-dial! ::) ....I thought I was looking at another jack-plug!!! :o Hehehe!
And then I started to get confused, thinking 'Do magnets have resistance values?' ;D
Sometimes I can be briliant! DOH! ;D :rock:
It looks like I was wrong about the FD-8 not having enough space to allow ample travel of the pedal with my HH conversion box. I received a pic of the box under an FD-8 pedal board. It looks like it should work fine. He will be testing this and I will post the results. J
Update: Yes it works great under the FD-8.
So add this with the FD-7 as two Roland pedals that could be used. That means those that already have one of the Roland pedals and just want to use that with my 2Box controller kit plus almost any brand HH cymbal or Ecymbal can do that. Or use the same pedal and switch between 2Box and Roland module if you have both. Simply plug into the Stealth control box and cymbal for the 2Box module, or plug into the Roland pedal input for the Roland module.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4209/35652658911_4baabb490c_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WjvcnH)FD8wHHbox-Copy_zpsb89ebdf7 (https://flic.kr/p/WjvcnH) by Jman Stealth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/119814595@N06/), on Flickr
Thanks for keeping us updated, Jerry! (http://i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af122/danoh_forum/emoticons/danoh_thumbs_up_zps7ecc2491.gif)
Are you guys finding that you have better control over the hi-hats? What I mean is, do they seem to react better/more realistically?
Quote from: Jman on January 06, 2014, 07:44:48 PM
It looks like I was wrong about the FD-8 not having enough space to allow ample travel of the pedal with my HH conversion box. I received a pic of the box under an FD-8 pedal board. It looks like it should work fine. He will be testing this and I will post the results. J
I've got the HH conversion box installed, calibrated and working. Here are a couple of pics...
(http://i989.photobucket.com/albums/af12/billgtx/FD8wHHboxandplugs_zpsf24e123b.jpg) (http://s989.photobucket.com/user/billgtx/media/FD8wHHboxandplugs_zpsf24e123b.jpg.html)
(http://i989.photobucket.com/albums/af12/billgtx/FD8wmagnet_zpsd46ddf31.jpg) (http://s989.photobucket.com/user/billgtx/media/FD8wmagnet_zpsd46ddf31.jpg.html)
As you can see the bottom of the FD8 foot plate has ridges but the outermost ridges have enough room to place the magnet. I positioned the box also toward the edge of the base plate and faced the "x" as far forward as possible.
Cool, thanks for the update Bill, glad it works well with the FD-8 too!
Hello all,
JMan,
I ordered the hi hat conversion kit quite a while ago and it's been sitting in it's packaging since early December >:( Apologies for not getting back to you.
All,
I can't believe I've not had time to try it out until today when I found a few minutes to dig out my old Roland FD-7. I don't have any pictures but the underside of the foot plate is virtually the same as the FD-8 in the post by "billgtx" so I thought I would try a dry fit first before cleaning the controller and to check position .
I used some tape to stick the magnet in basically the same place as "billgtx" and then stuck the box with the "x" under the magnet which is roughly the same place as JMan had shown in his picture of the FD-7. I didn't expect it to work like that but it did :)
I've had the module, hi-hat and cymbals for about a year now but after the initial tests I gave up on the hi-hat after having tried different stands and spring tensions etc and resorted to using the hi-hat sound from my SPD-20 which is not great. I only used the module on stage once as it meant having to carry the spd-20 as well.
With JMans box no such problems - just plugged in the cymbal (a Roland CY-5) and module and calibrated the hi-hat as normal. Initial impressions - excellent and is smaller than I expected. Within a few minutes I was up and playing rather than messing around with settings and spending ages trying to get a usable hi-hat function.
I've only used it for a few minutes playing single strokes, double stokes, edge, bow etc and got no unexpected open or closed sounds or double triggering. Very impressed so far. I noticed four distinct hi-hat sounds as I moved the pedal up and down - I'm assuming this is because the hi-hats only have four transitions between closed to open rather a limitation of JMans box.
I was using the CY-5 as a crash cymbal and left it where it was which is one of the reasons why I didn't want to use a normal hi-hat stand or remote stand. This combination of pedal and a pad on a cymbal stand allows me to put the hi-hat pad, or even the pedal for that matter, wherever I want whenever I want.
I'll try to update again once I get a chance to set it up properly and used it in the normal position. I suspect expect it will work as well if not better once fixed properly. I didn't try with my practice hi-hat stand as it does not have a bottom plate on which to position the box
JMan,
I think it should be called the "ManBox" because you are "the man" :) You've also made me a happy man :)
Question for you also. Would it be possible to use two pads with this in different positions? Maybe by using a "y" splitter with "trs" connections each end.
Regards,
Hatul.
Quote from: HiHat on February 17, 2014, 11:13:33 PM
Hello all,
JMan,
I ordered the hi hat conversion kit quite a while ago and it's been sitting in it's packaging since early December >:( Apologies for not getting back to you.
All,
I can't believe I've not had time to try it out until today when I found a few minutes to dig out my old Roland FD-7. I don't have any pictures but the underside of the foot plate is virtually the same as the FD-8 in the post by "billgtx" so I thought I would try a dry fit first before cleaning the controller and to check position .
I used some tape to stick the magnet in basically the same place as "billgtx" and then stuck the box with the "x" under the magnet which is roughly the same place as JMan had shown in his picture of the FD-7. I didn't expect it to work like that but it did :)
I've had the module, hi-hat and cymbals for about a year now but after the initial tests I gave up on the hi-hat after having tried different stands and spring tensions etc and resorted to using the hi-hat sound from my SPD-20 which is not great. I only used the module on stage once as it meant having to carry the spd-20 as well.
With JMans box no such problems - just plugged in the cymbal (a Roland CY-5) and module and calibrated the hi-hat as normal. Initial impressions - excellent and is smaller than I expected. Within a few minutes I was up and playing rather than messing around with settings and spending ages trying to get a usable hi-hat function.
I've only used it for a few minutes playing single strokes, double stokes, edge, bow etc and got no unexpected open or closed sounds or double triggering. Very impressed so far. I noticed four distinct hi-hat sounds as I moved the pedal up and down - I'm assuming this is because the hi-hats only have four transitions between closed to open rather a limitation of JMans box.
I was using the CY-5 as a crash cymbal and left it where it was which is one of the reasons why I didn't want to use a normal hi-hat stand or remote stand. This combination of pedal and a pad on a cymbal stand allows me to put the hi-hat pad, or even the pedal for that matter, wherever I want whenever I want.
I'll try to update again once I get a chance to set it up properly and used it in the normal position. I suspect expect it will work as well if not better once fixed properly. I didn't try with my practice hi-hat stand as it does not have a bottom plate on which to position the box
JMan,
I think it should be called the "ManBox" because you are "the man" :) You've also made me a happy man :)
Question for you also. Would it be possible to use two pads with this in different positions? Maybe by using a "y" splitter with "trs" connections each end.
Regards,
Hatul.
Thanks for the kudos Hatul, and the review. These do work quite well, I use one myself. And the answer to the last question is Yes. I control two HH cymbals from the same controller myself, my main moving HH stand/cymbals at my traditional HH spot and one stationary HH cymbal on the other side of my kit. You just need a simple 1/4" Headphone splitter like this plugged into the Cymbal side of the Stealth 2Box HH control box and a TRS cable to each HH cymbal: http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-35MM-1-4-PLUG-TO-2-x-JACK-SOCKET-HEADPHONE-SPLITTER-ADAPTER-STEREO-CABLE-LEAD-/370613642384?pt=UK_Computing_Sound_Vision_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item564a4b6490
Obviously you are going to get the exact same Hi Hat sounds on both HH cymbals as you are really only adding a "twin" trigger to the same HH input, but it is a nice option for having your HH available in 2 places on your kit.
Side Note: As far as the amount of transitions that can be detected. The controller is "continuous". The 2Box module itself can detect 10 transitions, but most Hi Hats have less (2Box or VST), typically Closed, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and full Open. That is for each Bow and Edge. Some VSTs have a couple more transitions than that ... like some SD2 Hi Hats have more. But generally the Clsd, 1, 2, 3, Full Open make nice Hi Hats. That is what all the BFD3 and Zildjian Dig. Vault hats have and those are pretty much my favorites.
I had an old 2Box Hi Hat stand, one of the very early models. Since for using my HH stand conversion kit it is best to use a stand with a bottom platform, I thought I would show just one idea of how to add a platform for the control box to a stand like this or many similar. In the pics below I did a very quick platform using a small piece of flat metal. I drilled out the hole a little larger in the sheet metal plate so the carpet cleat can go through the plate. And I put a double layer of Killer Red tape on the bottom of the plate. It would be very easy to make this even sturdier by simply drilling a couple small holes in the base of the HH stand where the metal plate sits and attaching it with a couple bolts, nuts, washers.
The stand and plate with 2 sided tape:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4101/35742622086_8b97d1fd29_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WsshhW)Btm pltfrm prts installed (https://flic.kr/p/WsshhW) by Jman Stealth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/119814595@N06/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4259/35742621326_afce30beb4_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Wssh4Q)Btm pltfrm w cntrl box back (https://flic.kr/p/Wssh4Q) by Jman Stealth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/119814595@N06/), on Flickr
And here are some more pics of what another customer did using my box under a 2Box Hi Hat stand. This was the dry run with everything just taped in place. Again it can be installed sturdier by simply attaching via bolts, nuts, washers to the bottom of the stand instead of tape if you prefer:
My Stealth 2Box HH stand conversion kit placed on carpet beneath a 2Box stand (before bottom plate):
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4210/35652657071_4f770aaa6f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WjvbPZ)Stealth2Boxconvboxunderstand_zpse0367e0b (https://flic.kr/p/WjvbPZ) by Jman Stealth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/119814595@N06/), on Flickr
Customer uses fiberboard cut to size beneath 2Box stand, simply attached with tape
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4090/34944324954_f4c901cb87_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VeUNnh)Underside of heal section of 2box hihat pedal modification (https://flic.kr/p/VeUNnh) by Jman Stealth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/119814595@N06/), on Flickr
Side view with fiberboard bottom and Stealth 2Box HH stand conversion kit:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4207/35652656821_40c4233dc1_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WjvbKF)2Bxstandfiberboardbtm_zps6f47387f (https://flic.kr/p/WjvbKF) by Jman Stealth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/119814595@N06/), on Flickr
View from opposite side
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4241/35784513535_a815b3e8cd_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ww9Zai)DIYbottomHHplate_zps3268ba01 (https://flic.kr/p/Ww9Zai) by Jman Stealth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/119814595@N06/), on Flickr
Jman....how to buy one of those conversion hh kit??.... I'm almost giving up on 2box...frustrated with my hi hat....
Quote from: BuffaloMan on August 04, 2014, 06:27:22 PM
Jman....how to buy one of those conversion hh kit??.... I'm almost giving up on 2box...frustrated with my hi hat....
I sent you a PM. J
Hang in there , buffalo man , I have all Jman's stealth drum and cymbals al triggers inuding the hi hat conversion and they work flawlessly ! Your troubles with the hi hat are soon to be over . My hats work great now with his set up!
Thanks for the Kudos Jeff!
I can also confirm that I am very happy with the Jman HiHat Conversion kit. I am using it with the 2Box HiHat stand and it really improves the cymbal triggering. Jman sent it to me quickly, all the way to Sweden.
Thanks again Jman!!
/Anders
Quote from: duckers on August 05, 2014, 10:21:34 AM
I can also confirm that I am very happy with the Jman HiHat Conversion kit. I am using it with the 2Box HiHat stand and it really improves the cymbal triggering. Jman sent it to me quickly, all the way to Sweden.
Thanks again Jman!!
/Anders
Glad it is working well for you Anders! And thanks for the positive feedback, J
No problem , Jerry, that's why we call you Jman cuz you be the MAN! Thanks again for selling me great products at a great price and helping me with all the set up, even more importantly :animal:
I thought I would add another simple solution for adding a plate to the bottom of a typical Hi Hat stand. This just happens to be a 1st generation 2Box Hi Hat stand, but this would work on all or most all Hi Hat stands with the typical two bars that connect the pedal heel to the stand base. This little DIY mod took me all of about 15 minutes .... 5 minutes thinking about how I would do it. 3 minutes locating the parts in my shop, and 7 minutes tops putting it all together. It took me much more time taking pics, uploading those pics and typing this post than doing this little project.
It is very simple, you just need a couple metal straps, bolts, washers and nuts.
This is what I used:
2 ea. Simpson TP15 straps: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-TP15-1-13-16-in-x-5-in-Tie-Plate-TP15/100375260
4 ea. #6-32 X 3/4" machine screws with nuts. (packaged with #6-32 nuts)
4 ea. #6 washers
4 ea. #6 lockwashers
Here is the new simple base installed with my Stealth 2Box HH control box on it:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4071/35651387301_cefd3d7a3f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WjoFnp)Controller on plate (https://flic.kr/p/WjoFnp) by Jman Stealth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/119814595@N06/), on Flickr
Here is picture of the plate installed:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4090/35742434296_b774eaedee_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Wsrjtb)Add plate to HH stand (https://flic.kr/p/Wsrjtb) by Jman Stealth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/119814595@N06/), on Flickr
And here is a picture showing the stand can still be broken down for moving:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4234/35651387751_826d792882_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WjoFva)stand easily breaks down with plate on (https://flic.kr/p/WjoFva) by Jman Stealth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/119814595@N06/), on Flickr
So if you have a stand that already has a metal plate type base, you can install my Stealth 2Box HH stand conversion box with Velcro right to your existing base and you're set. But if you do not have a stand with a base, NO BIG DEAL! You can do a simple little add on mod like this and then attach my box with the included Velcro to your plate. DONE. Another nice thing is you do not do any damaging modifications to your existing HH stand whether it has a existing plate or you add your own this way.
For those who prefer to have me add this hardware kit with everything pictured and listed above for the HiHat box mounting plate .... I can include it with the order for an additional $7.00. That includes the hardware plus the extra shipping weight. Be sure to let me know you want to add the mounting plate hardware for your stand when you contact me. J
Hope it helps! J
Thanks Jerry, very simple but helpful solution.
Quite a few people are using my Stealth 2Box HH stand conversion kit along with a Roland CY cymbal on a Hi Hat stand. I thought I would upload a few pictures of a CY-5 mounted on an acoustic HH stand. There is some hardware included with the CY-5, but all you really need is a few additional cymbal felts plus your own Hi Hat stand/clutch.
This picture shows the CY-5 mounted on a PDP HH stand. A side view, notice the extra felts on the base of the stand that act as the bottom cymbal stopper:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4263/35613830362_3ea7ec69f2_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Wg5bZY)CY5 on HH stnd side - Copy (https://flic.kr/p/Wg5bZY) by Jman Stealth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/119814595@N06/), on Flickr
Here is a top view. I used the larger felt that came with the CY-5 instead of the small felt from the HH clutch:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4019/35742618506_40c99bcfc5_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Wssged)CY5 on HH stnd Top - Copy (https://flic.kr/p/Wssged) by Jman Stealth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/119814595@N06/), on Flickr
Here is a bottom view of the clutch on the CY-5. I used a little larger felt than what is on the HH clutch and tightened the clutch nut tight. It keeps the CY-5 straight and secure on the rod:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4065/35742619446_009d60752d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Wssgvq)CY5 bottom clutch with felt - Copy (https://flic.kr/p/Wssgvq) by Jman Stealth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/119814595@N06/), on Flickr
And a view of the extra felts on the stand cymbal base. This creates the stopper for downward travel. A little plus with this is it gives a realistic feel when pressing down firm as it has a little give when pushing extra tight.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4240/35615267472_4ec61cd567_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WgcycJ)XtrafeltsasHHstopper-Copy_zpscfdeaaf7 (https://flic.kr/p/WgcycJ) by Jman Stealth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/119814595@N06/), on Flickr
Well, I have secured a new source for my controller board. So I have plenty of these in stock now. J
Good news, Jman!
For those that prefer to mount the magnet permanently on the underside of their pedal JB Weld would be my suggestion. I have used JB Weld for years for various repairs and other projects even fixed a crack in an engine valve cover years ago. The stuff is great. Just mix up a very small amount, stick the magnet in place and tape it down, in 24 hrs. it will be permanently attached. Obviously you need to predetermine the spot it will be installed and make sure the side that I install the 2 sided tape on is the side you put the JB Weld on as the magnet only works when facing the correct direction. So you would want to test everything first before using the JB Weld. My advice would be to install the magnet with the 2 sided tape as I sent it. Install the Stealth control box. Test and calibrate everything. That way you can be sure all is working just right. Once you are satisfied you can remove the magnet and re-install it with JB Weld.
This is the product I have used:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/J-B-Weld-Weld-8265-s/100189012
Quote from: Jman on February 09, 2015, 07:07:20 PM
For those that prefer to mount the magnet permanently on the underside of their pedal JB Weld would be my suggestion. I have used JB Weld for years for various repairs and other projects even fixed a crack in an engine valve cover years ago. The stuff is great. Just mix up a very small amount, stick the magnet in place and tape it down, in 24 hrs. it will be permanently attached. Obviously you need to predetermine the spot it will be installed and make sure the side that I install the 2 sided tape on is the side you put the JB Weld on as the magnet only works when facing the correct direction. So you would want to test everything first before using the JB Weld. My advice would be to install the magnet with the 2 sided tape as I sent it. Install the Stealth control box. Test and calibrate everything. That way you can be sure all is working just right. Once you are satisfied you can remove the magnet and re-install it with JB Weld.
This is the product I have used:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/J-B-Weld-Weld-8265-s/100189012
did this tonight! That magnet isnt going anywhere... (and if it does I bought a few more just in case...ya never know!!! LOL) Thanks JMAN!
I added a paragraph about the alternate JB Weld magnet installation to the instruction sheet. This would prolly be the way to go if you are gigging and moving the kit a lot. J
Bought a controller box from jman less than a month ago, prior to that I was on the verge of selling it. I was using to stock hi hats with ok results, once I installed the box and im using it with a cy8 roland pad I can say the responsiveness is much better. I had a hard time getting a soft hit to register unless I had the gain up crazy high, this annoying problem was resolved with jmans box. Now is it responsive as the hats on my td30, no but its miles ahead of the stock ones in my opinion. Wish I would of purchased years ago, its got me thinking of replacing the ride cymbals as well.
Quote from: tmoney on July 28, 2015, 10:59:54 PM
Bought a controller box from jman less than a month ago, prior to that I was on the verge of selling it. I was using to stock hi hats with ok results, once I installed the box and im using it with a cy8 roland pad I can say the responsiveness is much better. I had a hard time getting a soft hit to register unless I had the gain up crazy high, this annoying problem was resolved with jmans box. Now is it responsive as the hats on my td30, no but its miles ahead of the stock ones in my opinion. Wish I would of purchased years ago, its got me thinking of replacing the ride cymbals as well.
Thanks for the feedback t!
so if I m understanding right, do I really need this stealth conversion kit, if I simply plan to use a dw 5000 2 legged hi-hat stand with my default 2box hi-hat cymbals?
I really don't care about having the remote option .
what are the pros and cons with using this conversion kit , on a standard 2box hi-hat ?
Quote from: crosstix73 on January 20, 2016, 12:32:50 AM
so if I m understanding right, do I really need this stealth conversion kit, if I simply plan to use a dw 5000 2 legged hi-hat stand with my default 2box hi-hat cymbals?
I really don't care about having the remote option .
what are the pros and cons with using this conversion kit , on a standard 2box hi-hat ?
This mod, like the title says is for using
other Brand E-Hi Hat cymbal or Ecymbal. It is not needed and doesn't work with the original 2Box Hi Hat cymbal.
ok, so wich brand hi-hat do you use for your stealth conv. kit?
would this conv. kit work w. my current Yamaha rhh 135, for my dtxtreme III module ?
Quote from: crosstix73 on January 22, 2016, 08:54:05 PM
ok, so wich brand hi-hat do you use for your stealth conv. kit?
would this conv. kit work w. my current Yamaha rhh 135, for my dtxtreme III module ?
Yes, it will work with the RHH135 and 2Box module.
If interested in purchasing send me a PM with your location or zip code and I will quote price including shipping.
Quote from: Jman on January 22, 2016, 09:27:48 PM
Yes, it will work with the RHH135 and 2Box module.
If interested in purchasing send me a PM with your location or zip code and I will quote price including shipping.
Is this without modification to the cymbal?
Quote from: stickcharmer on November 23, 2017, 02:08:15 AM
Is this without modification to the cymbal?
Yes, because the RHH135 is just a dual zone HH cymbal. You are not plugging into the Yamaha Controller since my Stealth 2Box HH stand conversion kit is what you are using instead of the Yamaha HH control.
RHH135: Stats
Size/Weight
Dimensions Width dia. 329 mm (13")
Depth 61 mm
Weight Weight 1.4 kg (Hi-Hat clutch included)
PAD
Zone 2 (Bow/Edge)
Good to know
I have plenty of stock on these Stealth 2Box Hi Hat Stand Conversion kits and ship worldwide. I build and test every one personally, guaranteed to work. Just send me a PM or email if interested. Let me know if you are in the US, or where you are located. Jerry
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