Messages

Hey,
I couldn't get the chain in audacity to do what I wanted (split and export) I followed your chain instructions to the letter, however it wouldn't allow me to adjust compression on truncate. However, the settings by default were correct, providing the "50" is the same as "50.00000000000" it truncate but doesnt split or export WAVs.

Hello,
Anyone try using an external effects processor with the 2box module? As you are all aware, the internal effects is limited to flange and delay, pretty useless if you ask me. I have always wanted to have dry by really dynamic sounds but using a powerful effects processor for ambient and compression. On the ddrum 4 it was simple as you could assign different levels to separate outputs so say 1+2 could be the main mix, 3 could be an effect send so on each drum (say snare and toms) you could send different levels of each down output 3 into a processor then out of that into as stereo return on the desk. In the 2box instance, the return of the effect processor could be routed into the AUX input. I just haven't figured out to route a sound out of a third effects sent independently of a mix. If the FX buss could be routed to on of the 6 outputs, that would be the ticket.

Oh Ddrum and your brilliant, but brittle designs! I have had many many triggers, Ddrum reshot, pro, DDT and Chrome Elite as well as Pintect Trigger perfect and Trigit. And I had the same problem with all of them. The pintech design was the most road sensible as Piezos could be replaced so fast with no soldering needed at all. The downside, the triggered horribly with the 2box module needing massive amount of dampening. Also they didnt sit well on the hoop and worked loose during the gig.
I had some issues with the Trigit ones which Bengt and I spoke lots about. He recognised a fault in the soldering and I hope as since instructed the factory to amend. Basically, the negative wire was soldered too close to the edge so over time and vibration, the piezo would bend slightly breaking the wire off. If soldered closer into the piezo this is drastically reduced. I repaied mine this way and even put a blob of hog glue on it to secure it even more. Since, I haven't had a failure and I put them through their paces.

Thank you for the tips and I will endeavour to use them. But I repaired these on the road, with little time between shows and with a limited amount of tools at my disposal. These triggers were less than a month old before they started failing.

Okay so I've decided to try a different trigger. The Trigit ones seems to be holding up with the new soldering method.
But wanted something more permanent that I don't have to mount and unmount every gig.
So I bought some intrig triggers and Bix trigger beaters from Triggera, and I have to say nothing comes close for triggering acoustic Drums with mylar heads. Their build quality is rock solid. Just done my first show with them and I'm blown away.
Very happy drummer right now I am.

Yep, that's us!

Yeah sounds great. But, td9 level but a much better sounding module. If that's the sounds from the module we are hearing that is. How many are there on the module and expandability are my first questions. Also what sort of price bracket would these retail for I wonder?

Thank you for uploading the photo here, I'm sure it will be a big help for anyone that has this problem of the blue wire breaking. I've had some correspondence with the author of this topic and sure enough, this was the problem with him. I hope the new batches come from the factory with the amended wiring.
As for what band is working that hard, well it's a show called The Circus Of Horrors. We tour theatres of uk every winter. This year we've been to Moscow, Amsterdam and will do a week in Ireland in late May. Per tour, anything over 100 shows, two hours each of pretty intense heavy rock so my gear takes a pasting!
Hope this new wiring makes the trigit triggers last better, such a drag when one fails mid show!! Personally I don't think a piezo placed against a Mylar head can sustain prolonged use, I think it's just a lack of durability. I think if the piezo was heavily powder/rubber coated (like I've seen some cheap alternatves) it would improve it, but who knows. Can't really tell unless they've been put through a tour like I do every year.
A couple of years ago, I had pintech ones and they had some great design features. Quick, no soldering piezo replacement, just un-clip broken one and pull away from housing, remove adhesive on replacement piezo, clip to terminals and you're away. I did this MID SONG!
But the downside is that they didn't work well with the 2box module, double triggering all over the place so I had to dampen down the heads a lot. After that they were okay. This was before the firmware update which has the mask time feature, I'm sure they'd fair better with the module now.
I didn't like the Allen key method to fasten it to the rim either and I found they worked loose a lot. Over tightening them also began to warp the housing. So between all the ddrum, pintech, old Kat and now the Trigit triggers, I've yet to find the perfect system to trigger acoustic drums live in terms of performance, user friendliness and durability.
I'm not giving up yet though, the next method might be DIY internal mounted trigger. But I'll give these trigit ones a proper go with the new wiring first.

Oh wait, looks like the link didn't work. How do I attach a photo again?

Ok this is how they suggested re-soldering the piezo. If you look just below the red cable, you can see where the blue cable used to be connected.

I go back out on tour on friday, it's a 2 hour show every night, 6 nights a week for 3 months. If they manage to hold up after this, then I'll eat my hat.

I'm doing this from an iPad and can't seem to be able to attach an image. I'll try on the computer shortly. But to further the discussion, you may not see the break, it can be less than a millimetre to break a connection. Here's a way of checking it.

Plug in the offending trigger to the module, but don't mount it on a drum. Make sure the threasholds is quite low, say -36 or something. While holding it in one hand tap the piezo with your finger and with another finger press on the piezo so you're compressing the foam. If you hear the occasional triggering of the sound, it's a break in one of the connections.

Pic of best way to solder it (if thats what you choose to do) to follow.

I've seen a hihat pad assembly pop up on eBay a few times. But the DIY Jman option could a more viable one. Also a company called Padtech make a hihat controller for 2box module too.

http://padtechdrums.com/en/hihats/44-pe-hihat-controller

Hello and thanks for the reply.
I attach the trigit on the rim, about 11 o'clock. I strike the drum roughly around the centre every time. There's not much adjustment room as its a fixed piezo position on the trigger.

Hello,
I have an issue (apart from breaking the connections, but that's on another thread) with triggering the 2box module with the trigit triggers on an acoustic snare with a Mylar head.
The settings are thus...
Acc 1,
Gain 0
Threashold - 36
Mask - 2

Rim - gain 0
Threshold - 16
Mask - 6

Not 100% on these but it's about that.

The problem?

Well playing on the centre of the drum, no issue. Tracks flams, rolls etc fine.

But I rim shot every back beat of a groove and what comes out is very inconsistent. Slight rim shots, ie if I'm not LEATHERING IT, can vary from an almighty "whack" with some audio phasing, to just a whimper of a note.

If I LEATHER every back beat, it's almost as inconsistent. It's difficult to convey in words what I mean. But I've set the gain right, IE hardest hits register a 0db value. I've tried setting it higher, and lower. Different mask times, higher threasholds, acc 2 as well as 3 (which is awful for snare anyway unless you don't okay anything faster than a 16th note at 120 sorta thing)

I recall I had the same issue with pintech trigger perfect triggers. Maybe even the Ddrum ones too, can't remember.

Don't have it with the 12" snare pad though.

Anyone else had/have this?

Hey,
I've had many break on me, so you're not alone. Before trigit I had every series of Ddrum ones they make, and all had the same issue.
Basically, the wire breaks at the solder point. 90% of the time it's the blue wire. Having had some correspondence with 2box, they've looked into it and concluded that the blue wire is soldered to close to the edge of the piezo thus making it hinge during hits and vibrations. They've suggested to resolder closer into the disc, which I've done. They offered to do it for me if I sent them to them but not having time off the road, it opted to do it myself. I assume they've realised this flaw and had the factory to amend this soldering on newer batches.
I cannot say just yet if it's sorted the problem longer term, but I'll report back one way or another.
If I can attach a photo of what they mean, I will.
Steve