i thought i'd start a new thread about setting up the kick drum, since comments about kick triggering are scattered throughout various unrelated threads...
i've found that adjusting the beater to the correct height on the drum is really crucial. Bengt suggests that the beater should hit the head about 25mm from the top of the sensor. on my kit that means the centre of the beater head is about 175mm from the very top edge of the metal rim of the kick drum. finding the absolute best position may require some trial and error.
with the beater head striking in the right zone, i am finding that double-triggering has been eliminated (even when i keep the beater head pressed into the kick drum after a stroke).
i can get a full range of trigger values with the gain set at about 5 and the threshold at -36, with a normal curve.
I'll have to try that. I made sure that my beater was above the sensor, but I'm having some trouble with distortion. I admit I've got a heavy right foot, but I should be able to set up the kick so it doesn't distort. I find I can turn the volume of the kick down, but then it sounds thin. Any tips you might have on what settings control that? So far I've only adjusted the volume of the bass drum, and the output of the head and the amplifier I'm using with the headphones.
Snyde
Quote from: fishmonkey on April 17, 2010, 09:11:02 AM
i thought i'd start a new thread about setting up the kick drum, since comments about kick triggering are scattered throughout various unrelated threads...
i've found that adjusting the beater to the correct height on the drum is really crucial. Bengt suggests that the beater should hit the head about 25mm from the top of the sensor. on my kit that means the centre of the beater head is about 175mm from the very top edge of the metal rim of the kick drum. finding the absolute best position may require some trial and error.
with the beater head striking in the right zone, i am finding that double-triggering has been eliminated (even when i keep the beater head pressed into the kick drum after a stroke).
i can get a full range of trigger values with the gain set at about 5 and the threshold at -36, with a normal curve.
try changing the trigger curve and trigger gain...
Must admit, the kick is a b!?*oo$kp to get right.....
I wonder how much difference there is between the Mk1 and Mk2?? prob makes a difference
when we read other drummers dude's threads...
Anyway, I've got a Mk2 - with a small pink tennis ball for a beater - at least my birds tell me
it looks like a pink tennis ball - to be honest dudes I don't know what a tennis ball even looks
like!! (pls believe me)
I thought I had the old "double trigger" problem at first, but then it turned out the problem was
the beater bouncing on the head unless I really pulled it back off. So getting the tension exactly
right was the cure for that.
End result tho - I can't get enough volume from the kick.
I've got the trigger set at +20db where the rest is around +2 / +6db, and I've got the kick gain settings
up higher than everything else -- still too quiet.
Not sure where to go from here?
again trigger curve: for example try setting the bd trigger curve to positive or maximum, what you describe seems strange though!
What I forgot to say was -
I found that the tension of the head needs to be cranked up pretty tight to get a decent
volume from the kick - but the problem is then that if it's too tight I can't stop the beater
from bouncing on the head.
I've got a different type of beater and I'm going to try that. Otherwise it's time to take
it apart and see if I can figure out a work round.
DOES ANYBODY have any suggestions for which types of beater are less likely to bounce
on a mesh head? I'm wondering if a patch would help?
Quote from: spoenk on January 07, 2011, 11:59:41 AM
again trigger curve: for example try setting the bd trigger curve to positive or maximum
Yes, got it on Positive1, any more and I don't like the feel of it.
have you tried how another pad behaves if you use it on the bass drum channel? same or different? louder response?
maybe the trigger on the bass drum pad doesn't work properly?
maybe someone must post a picture here, for the best positioning for our beaters.
I'm not disagreeing with what Fishmonkey says...
but there doesn't seem to be a lot of room for variation, at least not with the MKII
set up and a standard beater.
When I look at the kick head it is filled with foam except in the lower right where there
is a cut out to match the circular hole in the metal back plate (about 2 inches diameter).
Then there is the sensor visible lower centre (about 1 inch diameter).
Just above the sensor there is what looks like a slightly different foam layer, a large rectangle
about 5 inches high. Somewhere in this area I suppose the beater is designed to hit.
The funny thing is though - with the beater shaft at maximum length, the beater only just
reaches the lower part of this large rectangle, and is striking at 3cm above the top of the
sensor.
Does that agree with your set up Fishmonkey??
Quote from: Slap the drummer on January 19, 2011, 11:30:53 PM
I'm not disagreeing with what Fishmonkey says...
but there doesn't seem to be a lot of room for variation, at least not with the MKII
set up and a standard beater.
When I look at the kick head it is filled with foam except in the lower right where there
is a cut out to match the circular hole in the metal back plate (about 2 inches diameter).
Then there is the sensor visible lower centre (about 1 inch diameter).
Just above the sensor there is what looks like a slightly different foam layer, a large rectangle
about 5 inches high. Somewhere in this area I suppose the beater is designed to hit.
The funny thing is though - with the beater shaft at maximum length, the beater only just
reaches the lower part of this large rectangle, and is striking at 3cm above the top of the
sensor.
Does that agree with your set up Fishmonkey??
Slap, are you sure you have the MKII version of the kick? The MKII has no foam or backplate in it, it looks very much like a standard pad - can you post a picture and we can confirm?
This is what I heard:
some MK II kits have the old-stock kick pad with black plate
That's correct (I have the MKII rack with the kickpad with backplate and LED). It was sold for the old price of 2000 EUR whereas the kit with the new kickpad sells for 2200 EUR. The other pads are all MKII (with 6 nuts).
Hi folks -
I've got nowhere to post a picture to unfortunately.
But it seems clear I have the old version.
That's a bummer coz it's only the kick that has ever really bugged me. And I've been hesitating to take the foam
out etc because I thought that was to fix the MkI and I thought, well, with a MkII I should be alright. No discount
either.
Thanks for letting me know!
So - how is the Mk II pad set up? Is it: Mk I but take all the foam out and move the sensor?? Or are there some
other changes as well?
Thanks
as far as i know they are both the same only the mk II has the frontplate already removed and the trigger in right position.
Quote from: Slap the drummer on January 20, 2011, 08:27:36 PM
So - how is the Mk II pad set up? Is it: Mk I but take all the foam out and move the sensor?? Or are there some
other changes as well?
Thanks
Essentially yes. MKI has black metal backplate with 2Box logo and light. It has mesh pad which has foam backing underneath, and the sensor is placed in the centre. MKII version has all foam removed, sensor moved to bottom middle of pad, and backplate and light have also been removed. Also MKII should come with orange/red rubber beater (which you need for mesh only MKII version).
Which begs the question, perhaps many people have the rubber ball beater, but still have the MKI kick? The rubber beater works well on the mesh MKII - perhaps the rubber beater does not work well if you have the thick foam MKI version?
Indeed I have the new MKII rack and pads with the "old" MKI kick with the new orange ball tennisball beater. I don't have problems with it though but maybe I just don't know better :).
Yes you're right, I've also got MkI kick but with the new beater. I'm ashamed to admit it but I think
mine is more pink than orange tho... :-*
Could somebody with a genuine MkII post some pictures??
Well I tried taking the foam out and moving the sensor but it hasn't worked for me..... not sure
where to go from here :'(
Quote from: jw-smaal on January 21, 2011, 08:56:26 AM
Indeed I have the new MKII rack and pads with the "old" MKI kick with the new orange ball tennisball beater. I don't have problems with it though but maybe I just don't know better :).
I have also the old MK1 Kick, I use a meshhead protection DOT from Tdrum, and the orange meshtrigger beaters from thomann.de
And it works perfect for me,it plays very well,no double triggering. I still don't get why the new version not having the black front with the 2box logo (light) its beautiful...
Well finally got my (Mk I) kick drum working more or less.
The problem was:
1. Low volume
2. Cdn't stop the beater vibrating against the head unless I really pulled my foot back, something
I just can't do if I'm playing at any tempo faster than very slow. I know I'm the only one who seems
to have this problem, perhaps I just can't play....
I think double triggering is a bit misleading as a description because it might imply the trigger is not
working properly, when in fact it is tracking what is happening with amazing accuracy (beater buzzing
against head).
Anyway, the volume issue is definitely related to the smaller foam insert that sits where the beater
strikes. So I've taken that out and then put a patch of sorbothane on the outside of the mesh where
the beater strikes. (Sorbothane is that black squidgy stuff (always a good sign) used under electronics
to isolate them from vibration). I found it lying around and I thought, the beater won't bounce off that!
It does feel a bit slow without any real bounce back off the head, but at last my kick sounds LOUD and
clean and punchy. I need to get a thinner sheet of sorbothane with a denser consistency and experiment
a bit more I think.
So there is a thought for anybody else having similar problems. (There is nobody else I know).
---
Sorry Fishmonkey, I don't suppose this is what you had in mind when you started this thread. It was a good
idea though, it would be helpful to have clearer guidance on what to do and why. When I read back thru all
the kick drum posts I realized that I hadn't even noticed I had a Mk I and not a Mk II, even tho it shd have
been obvious.
who is better for the sensor?
1)kick drum with foam and metal plate
or
2)kick drum remove foam and the metal plate
who is better ?like acoustic kick?kick mk1 or mk2?
thanx!!!
The sensor triggers just as well in the centre or at the edge, and will be just as protected -
provided of course you are not hitting it directly.
The differences are more about how well the set up suits your playing style. I prefer the feel of
the head undamped by foam (and so with sensor at edge). But I can't have it like that because
(for me) the beater bounces/buzzes too much for me to control.
As for which is more like an acoustic. Mark 1 is more like a damped acoustic and Mark 2 is more
like a very lively and undamped acoustic :)
From what I remember it was just as much a matter of choice when tuning up an acoustic bass
drum. I ended up slackening the head and taping it up to keep the reverb down - and it certainly
didn't feel as nice and bouncy as a mesh head. Similar story with the toms come to that.
I have a similar issue.
I use an Axis pedal on my 2Box and a Pearl Demon Drive on my Acoustic kit.
I prefer the feel of the Demon Drive but i can't afford to buy another one for my 2Box kit and the Axis is by no means a bad pedal, it's great but here lies the problem...
I can dial in the settings on the Axis to feel like i'm playing the Demon Drive (Spring tension, Footplate angle, beater angle etc) but i get double triggering all the time.
Basically as had been said before the trigger is almost TOO good lol, it picks up every single breath of a move from my foot.
I have tried every trigger setting, every curve type and 3 different beaters (Plastic, Wood, Felt) to no avail.
I'm thinking of trying the Thomann mesh patch (kick patch) and the triggerball beater now. This is all getting very expensive tho lol.
I too have a MKII kit with a MKI kick, which i prefer the look and feel of but just can't set it up right.
Any ideas?
I have a MKII with MK1 kick. The kick went noisier and noisier so finally yesterday I looked it up on this forum and decided to modify it into a MK2.
It was quite easy and the results much better than I dared hope. I realize I took a risk but for me it was worthwhile. The Kick is now dead silent, it triggers better and the feel is much more like an acoustic (to my taste). Instead of just removing the foam as mentioned earlier on in this thread, I cut out the center of the foam, just where the metal rim that holds it ends, I also placed 2 layers of window insulation rubber under the foam to lift the foam until it applied some pressure onto the mesh.
Certainly did the trick for me, my fantastic 2box just got better! :patbat2box:
Regards,
dBl
Quote from: Slap the drummer on January 23, 2011, 05:17:19 PM
Well finally got my (Mk I) kick drum working more or less.
The problem was:
1. Low volume
2. Cdn't stop the beater vibrating against the head unless I really pulled my foot back, something
I just can't do if I'm playing at any tempo faster than very slow. I know I'm the only one who seems
to have this problem, perhaps I just can't play....
I think double triggering is a bit misleading as a description because it might imply the trigger is not
working properly, when in fact it is tracking what is happening with amazing accuracy (beater buzzing
against head).
Anyway, the volume issue is definitely related to the smaller foam insert that sits where the beater
strikes. So I've taken that out and then put a patch of sorbothane on the outside of the mesh where
the beater strikes. (Sorbothane is that black squidgy stuff (always a good sign) used under electronics
to isolate them from vibration). I found it lying around and I thought, the beater won't bounce off that!
It does feel a bit slow without any real bounce back off the head, but at last my kick sounds LOUD and
clean and punchy. I need to get a thinner sheet of sorbothane with a denser consistency and experiment
a bit more I think.
So there is a thought for anybody else having similar problems. (There is nobody else I know).
---
Sorry Fishmonkey, I don't suppose this is what you had in mind when you started this thread. It was a good
idea though, it would be helpful to have clearer guidance on what to do and why. When I read back thru all
the kick drum posts I realized that I hadn't even noticed I had a Mk I and not a Mk II, even tho it shd have
been obvious.
There is somebody else! Me! Thanks for posting this, I've got exactly the same problem. I've only just unpacked my kit and I've been so excited to start playing it but I can't get the kick going. I can hear it very quietly but no where near loud enough to play.
I've got the same bounce thing but I think I'll just gaffa the area in front of the beater and see what that does. I'll try taking the extra bit of foam out and see what happens!
Cheers
BB
Quote from: Battery Boy on April 12, 2011, 12:06:35 PM
I've got the same bounce thing but I think I'll just gaffa the area in front of the beater and see what that does. I'll try taking the extra bit of foam out and see what happens!
Cheers
BB
Did you sort this out? In the end mine was sent back to the distributor and they found the sensor to be exceptionally quiet, which
they duly replaced.
cheers
Quote from: Battery Boy on April 12, 2011, 12:06:35 PM
There is somebody else! Me! Thanks for posting this, I've got exactly the same problem. I've only just unpacked my kit and I've been so excited to start playing it but I can't get the kick going. I can hear it very quietly but no where near loud enough to play.
I've got the same bounce thing but I think I'll just gaffa the area in front of the beater and see what that does. I'll try taking the extra bit of foam out and see what happens!
Cheers
BB
I've got exactly the same problem! I got the MK2 with the MK1 kickpad. I have to cranck the gain way up to make it work and there is the "double" triggering ofcourse. I'll try to find the best height for the beater but if you guys have some good advice, let me know. Maybe I'll try to take the middle part (rectangle) of the foam out and see how that works. I had a look inside the pad to see if something was wrong and i saw that the foam-rectangle slightly comes out when all the foam is in place. Like as if the led-part pushes the rectangle out. That may cause that the mesh and trigger are too far from each other. However... this is just a theory.
well i made the kick pad to mk2 finally.
it is nicer and quieter but i cant seem to find the right way to have both no double triggerings and also nice rebound. if i tighten the mess, i have too much double trigering. if i leave it loose to avoid it, i have not a good feel in pedal. i am usinf pearl eliminator beaters and pedal. but with the 2box beater i remmebr it was worse... also when i double pedal the kick pad moves too much...
i am sure it just needs much trial and error to come with theright way to have it, but any advice would be more than welcome. would it be better if i used roland mesh so that it is more hard and have better rebound?
someone with mk2 kick, can he tell us what gain thres and curv he uses?
Quote from: BURNIN AMBITION on May 13, 2011, 01:24:24 AM
well i made the kick pad to mk2 finally.
it is nicer and quieter but i cant seem to find the right way to have both no double triggerings and also nice rebound. if i tighten the mess, i have too much double trigering. if i leave it loose to avoid it, i have not a good feel in pedal. i am usinf pearl eliminator beaters and pedal. but with the 2box beater i remmebr it was worse... also when i double pedal the kick pad moves too much...
i am sure it just needs much trial and error to come with theright way to have it, but any advice would be more than welcome. would it be better if i used roland mesh so that it is more hard and have better rebound?
someone with mk2 kick, can he tell us what gain thres and curv he uses?
You should tell us what settings you are using so we can compare. I have the MKII conversion, I use threshold 36-38, gain 1 or 2, Kick1 in the pad type and Pos1 or 2 in the curve setting I think. Mesh head is tightened to just past medium tension but I use a rubber ball beater - remember even the weight of the beater can alter trigger characteristics. I will double check all settings tomorrow.
gain 10 threshold -12 curve neg 2. the mesh head is medium tight (or pretty loose). the beaters are in a height that hits the kick in the middle, from the soft felt side.
hope this helps. if i put the curve in normal or pos, i get too much double trigerring
ps i also messed around now, with everything. it seems that gain 10 and thresh -15 with the mesh head really loose, almost unscrewed, works better. i tried the ball beater but it wasnt better, a more solid beater like the pearl beater seems to be better. now it double triggers only if i play too hard . but i dont like the loose mesh. but i cant complain...still it need fine tuning, i need to spend hours in this, but thought id ask for some settings, u guys made that worked well for you. it could save me time. please mention also what beater you use and how tight you have the mesh. thanx to all
Others may disagree but I think if you've got to set the mesh loose like that then
something is wrong.
Put it like this - what's the point of a lovely big mesh head if you have to slacken
it off to the point of being unresponsive? You might as well be using something
cheap and cheerful like a roland KD85 which won't give you this problem.
I would do this -
a) is this a Mk1 to Mk2 conversion? Who did it? I feel certain that the key here
is to get pressure applied to the perimeter of the mesh to damp it down. You need
the foam ring specifically for the Mk2 - or else you need to do what dbl says in an
earlier post (below) and use some extra insulation of your own. I suspect that the
reason some people find the Mk2 better is because the Mk1 tended to provide lighter
but all over damping rather than pushing it tight at the perimeter.
Sort this out and then tighten your head up so that its nice and bouncy (not all the
way tight).
b) I don't think you should have to use a negative curve. Use normal. And don't set
the threshold too high.
c) Now experiment with single strokes. Play a normal single beat. Don't play like if
you were really playing. The idea is to find out - is it possible for you to get a single
beat out of the drum?
d) Concentrate on pulling the beater back fast off the head after the hit.
e) Now do the opposite. Try and push the beater firm against the head and hold it there.
f) Doing the above, try your different beaters and experiment a bit with position - off centre
and so on. Personally I think its interesting to set the curve to Max2. This will really let
you hear what is going on. Are you having lessons at the moment? Get your teacher
to see if he can get a single beat out of it.
g) The idea is to establish can you actually get a single beat out without any extra triggering.
This is stage one - report back and let us know how you get on.
I would at the same time consider trying a roland head if you have the funds. A spare head is
no bad thing in the long run and you might find you like it better anyway.
amazing post!!!!
i will try what you say over the weekend and post all the results here
some fast points.
i do not like max2 or max 1 because there are no dynamics in it. whether you play soft or hard, it wqill always come out hard...
secondly, i have mk2 kick pad. it was mk1 and the distributor made it into a mk2. they didnt have a clue as they did not remove the back plate and they still had the sensor in the middle. all they did was cut the cables of the light. so i fixed everything correctly.
ps. when the mesh is loose, i cant say it is unresponsive. it is still bouncy.and i can easily play all kinds of beats in it.i have loosen it to the point the aluminum clamps of the kick head dont start moving around. when i had it tightened all the way up, the beater would be much more bouncy of course, but also noiser and for sure, more bouncy than i would like. i have to run now, but tomorrow i will do more tests and post a more informative post. thanx very much
Hi BA - I forgot to mention - there is a difference between trigger pad type "Kick1" and "Kick2",
so try them both.
Yeh, I know you wdn't want to use Max normally, but here it can help you hear what is really
going on because the slightest extra trigger and it will be audible.
Do it just for me ;)
Remember you are not trying to fix it here, just establish how bad the problem is.
cheers
yes i understand what you mean mate. you have a valid point here. i will test everything and report back
ps. i hate kick 2 because it makes me feel i do not hit the pedal on time. but triggerwise it is better. with kick 2 the double triggering was minimised to one third, i would say. pitty it is not my cup of tea
Quote from: Slap the drummer on May 13, 2011, 05:17:05 PM
Hi BA - I forgot to mention - there is a difference between trigger pad type "Kick1" and "Kick2",
so try them both.
Yeh, I know you wdn't want to use Max normally, but here it can help you hear what is really
going on because the slightest extra trigger and it will be audible.
Do it just for me ;)
Remember you are not trying to fix it here, just establish how bad the problem is.
cheers
well in order not to trigger a double sound, i have to make clean kick moves. i mean i just have to press the pedal and release my foot from it real fast. only this way it wont rigger any double trigger sound. and with mesh being loose. the slightest tight of the mesh makes it double trigger. all my tests were in max 2 curve. if i play like i normally do, only if i play slow tunes it wont double trigger. if i play double pedal there is always double trigger. i wonder if i should put the back cover back up and cut a piece of the foam to put it where the beaters hit the mesh...
for slight or no double triggering i have to have gain in 10, thresh in -12 and neg2 in curve. and the head being extremely loose. but i dont think this is the way to go....
When I tested mine like this I would get - not so much a "double trigger" as a press roll (a prolonged
buzz), even when I pulled the pedal right back. In other words, the mesh head was actually vibrating
after the hit, enough to register as a trigger.
From this it seemed clear to me that when I went back to normal curve, raising the threshold, slacking
off the tension etc, these were just covering up the problem rather than curing it - and stray double
triggers kept poking through.
So I concluded that since I literally couldn't get a clean hit off the head without going to extreme
measures, then it must be faulty and I sent it back.
Would you say yours was as bad as this? How many "double triggers" per hit were you getting?
Quote: "i wonder if i should put the back cover back up and cut a piece of the foam to put it where the beaters hit the mesh..."
Well it's worth a go, but you're back to Mk1 config then! And you may find that now the sensor is at the edge
the sound is not loud enough. Surely it didn't work as Mk1 or you wouldn't have converted to Mk2?
well i dont want to send ti back as they are already replacing the brain. they will think i am some kind of stupid or something...
yes it was not good in mk1 but the sensor was in the middle so i guess it would catch up everything easier. perhaps with just a piece of foam in the middle it will get better.....
i will give it a go tomorrow to see. when i connected the drums in rock band isaw that some times even one hit registered 4 kick hits...
i also think my mesh is vibrating a lot. but if i have it lose it just rebounds back after the hit and hits again the pedal and registers. in max2 curve, even the wind would register a hit if i have threshold at -48 which was awkward. the sligthest move of the pedal base, would trigger many many sounds even without the beater touching the mesh
Quote from: BURNIN AMBITION on May 14, 2011, 05:21:23 PM
well i dont want to send ti back as they are already replacing the brain. they will think i am some kind of stupid or something...
You shouldn't worry about that. You have a right to something that works properly. I take it you're not in the UK?
Quote from: BURNIN AMBITION on May 14, 2011, 05:21:23 PM
when i connected the drums in rock band isaw that some times even one hit registered 4 kick hits...
i also think my mesh is vibrating a lot. but if i have it lose it just rebounds back after the hit and hits again the pedal and registers. in max2 curve, even the wind would register a hit if i have threshold at -48 which was awkward. the sligthest move of the pedal base, would trigger many many sounds even without the beater touching the mesh
So can I just confirm this - with Max2 and otherwise normal settings, any single stroke produces a lot of triggers, right? How many, a
lot more than 4? A buzz roll like I described, or not as bad as that?
I'm not sure I'm understanding you correctly.
8) Don't rush ahead too much, it pays to be systematic with these things, or you go round in circles.
But if you do want to try jumping ahead to Stage 17 :D, one thing I was going to suggest is this.....
Before you start damping the head try to get the tension right first. Go to Max2 and back off the threshold setting.
Deliberately try and produce multiple triggers and try and see if different tensions are better than others. Also,
try slacking off one or maybe 2 nuts more than the others, this can help reduce resonance. It might all be the same
but it makes sense to try and find the best tuning before you start experimenting with damping it.
i am from greece mate
with max2 and normal settings (normal gain and thres) i get many triggers. more than for. if i tighten the mesh very much, i get one thousand triggers, i could say. even my breath triggered it
what you say in the last paragraph is very clever mate. i will try it tomorrow and post again the results.thank you very very much for the help and suggestions
because i was too tired to film a nice video i did some experiments. i put again the back plate and foam. in the beginning i put just the oval piece of foam just where the beater hits on the mesh.well the result was that only in max2 and with thresh at -48 would i get a hit. and that was many many hits with one kick of my foot. then i decided to put foam somewhere else in the mesh apart from where the beater hits. still same thing. hits would register only with max2 and low threshold. so i removed back plate again and screwed some screws really good and left 2 others almost unscrewed so that there would be not symmetric tension in the mesh head. in max2 and thresh-48 it would trigger many many double hits again. but in normal curve and thresh -12 with gain at 10, it would minimise the double triggers. still they happen but i found that this is the only configuration that can be "playable"
i am so sad i dunno what is wrong...anyway, i am still hangovered so i will speak ore tomorrow. thanx to all for listening to my problems
today i talked to a great greek guy that had bought the mk1 version . he told me that he had also made the conversion to mk2 as well. and then he reverted (due to many double triggers ) to mk1 again. he told me his settings. gain 0(fuckin strange) thresh -33 curve norm. and with tight mesh head. he can play double pedal and everything triggers amazingly well. with these settings i cant trigger anything with mk1 conversion. i guess this is another proof that my kick is problematic. anyone else of you with mk1 can get triggers with gain at zero? cause i cant no matter what
I did the conversion too, but with bad triggering results. Instead I put the sensor back, took out the middle piece of foam and tightened the head. And now it works good. Don´t remember my gain/threshold settings at the moment, but could get back here later with them.
that would be awesome thank you. i havent made my video yet cause i was working all day will makeit soon
Gain 10, threshold -36.
Burnin are you having this kick problem using the 2Box on its own or only with using it for Rock Band? Just want to make sure your problem is with the trigger/head and not because you're trying to play a computer game with it.
We need to make sure you understand how those settings affect the operation and you're not just trying to copy other settings. Here's my understanding of of how the settings actually apply to the operation of the module, hope it helps you figure it out:
Curve: Leave the curve setting at normal before changing other settings - this setting should be altered only once you are happy with gain and threshold.
Gain: Should be set so that your hardest strike of the drum only just lights up the top level under the unit/trigger page. Remember, try to keep the gain at 0 at first and make small adjustments as you go.
Threshold: Should be set high enough so that no double triggering occurs, but low enough to register your softest strike. A value of 36 roughly is a good place to start.
Trigger Type: Should be set to Kick 1 or Kick 2. Kick 1 has a faster response, kick 2 slightly delayed according to the 2Box manual. I use Kick1.
Curve: Once you are happy with the triggering, adjust the curve to fine tune.
Cabling: Make sure the stereo jack has its plastic washer tightened at the input port, and check the stereo cable works on another device.
Rack/Bass drum connection: Make sure the bass drum is firmly secured to the rack - there should be minimal movement when striking the pad.
Head Tension: Ideally it should be at least medium tightness, I have mine tuned up medium/tight and the response is great, the slacker the head the less responsive it will become, although it will still trigger of course.
If you still can't get it triggering properly, the sensor or cabling must be faulty. - I say that only because I have had both the MKI with foam and MKII without foam and both triggered perfectly with different settings, so more than likely, for you its a sensor problem/sensor postioning problem, or a module settings issue.
mate i thank yu for the informative post you made. since i first registered here, i have learned all there is to learn about the module. and yes what you say, i already know. and i am not talking about rock band game i am talking about real drumming. tomorrow i will post finally the video i promised. or more easily i will post audio of the beat i play that double triggers to see what i mean. i am convinced there is something wrong. in general i am happy with this thread because i has many informations that can help 2box owners. and this forum rocks. and thanx for all the help
Quote from: Baby Samus on May 16, 2011, 10:40:44 PM
We need to make sure you understand how those settings affect the operation and you're not just trying to copy other settings. Here's my understanding of of how the settings actually apply to the operation of the module, hope it helps you figure it out:
etc etc
With all due respect to Baby Samus, these points have been covered before. His problem seems to be too serious for things
like threshold settings to really get to the root of the problem. As I have posted, the sensible thing to do imho is to establish once
and for all whether it is possible that some of the mesh heads are at fault.
Are you running Mk2 at the moment Baby Samus? If so, I hope you're participating in the "Kick Drum Experiment" as per the
other post ;)
i talked today with 2box in sweden. i mentioned brain problems and of course i will get a new brain. as the problems are serious. about kick pad trigerring they requested some photos and i sent them to them. so i can give you also the link to watch the tape the technicians put in the cables. it makes me laugh
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=1C1WC8HA
in a while i will also give you sound example of the double triggerings
ok so here is the wav file
i am talking in the beginning but the quality isnt the best, what i was saying is this
i put max2, kick1 gain 10 thresh -48 type norm
i put max2 so that double trigerring will be hearable very well
then i put threshold in -36 then in -26 and then in minus 18. in minus 18 it happened but not that often but still happened.and with such big thresh it is but for playing with dynamics...
hereit is tell me what you think. i played a steady beat but especially in -48 you can hear only steady noise lol
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=F1WRZXAH
ps. if someone needs me to do some better experiments, i can just tell me what you want me to do
Quote from: Slap the drummer on May 17, 2011, 08:59:37 AM
With all due respect to Baby Samus, these points have been covered before. His problem seems to be too serious for things
like threshold settings to really get to the root of the problem. As I have posted, the sensible thing to do imho is to establish once
and for all whether it is possible that some of the mesh heads are at fault.
Are you running Mk2 at the moment Baby Samus? If so, I hope you're participating in the "Kick Drum Experiment" as per the
other post ;)
Yeah I did say it was probably a sensor problem toward the end of that post, just wanted to make sure. I'm running MKII kick at the moment yes, and will do the test later today. Just got my new 12" birch e-snare today in a lovely 2Box orange wrap to match, so as you can imagine, the kick drum experiment is taking a back seat!
wow
please post some pictures!!!!
all these custom drum sets make me jealous. at least i have a third cymbal. that is something!!!
good news guys. i talked with sweden headquarters and they will send me a new brain and sensor!!!!
thanx for all the help all of you
I have a Mk2 kick and had low volume issues as well. In the end all I did was to remove the foam and the kick triggers now perfectly! :rock:
I think the foam is important in the toms and snare to give more stability and protect the o-rims, but since in the kick there are no o-rims or plastic ring, well, no need for the foam there I reckon....
So, to all who have a Mk2 kick and low volume issues, remove the foam completely and you'll notice the difference right away! No need to change settings, I have mine on 9 gain and -36 Threshold. :patbat2box: