Author Topic: Hi hat chick problem  (Read 1747 times)

nocturnodrummer

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Re: Hi hat chick problem
« Reply #15 on: June 26, 2017, 08:20:33 PM »
Well, it plays well at home.. no more mistriggering. But i discovered that when i pinch the hi hat and hold it, the hi hat position doesnt change. But when pinching it few times in a row, I get occasional abrupt chick sounds.

ANGR77

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Re: Hi hat chick problem
« Reply #16 on: June 26, 2017, 09:43:03 PM »
Hi!

I had to do some tests also...I used my old 2box hi-hat. First the edge switch did not trigger at all...so  after taking the hi-hat apart, I saw that one of the edge "teeths" was connecting all the time to the ground. After fixing it the "8" came up as usual when hitting the edge.

Continuing the tests...pinching the edge fast a couple of times in a row I could occasionally get the hi-hat to open when looking on the calibration panel. But no mistriggering sound. It looked more easy to get it to open when looking on your previous video doing the pinching.

Strange if you got it to work at home...is the environment different in any way compared to the stage setup?

Best Regards

Anders / www.zourman.com

Sonor Force Stage 2007 + Safari, Quartz Triggers, Roland & Triggera, 2box Cymbals & HH, RT-10, KT-10, BT-1, VH-11/12/13, KT-10, CY-12/14C/13R/15R, MegaDRUM, 2Box 5 & 3, DD4SE, Pearl ButtKicker Addictive Drums 2.1.7, all ADPaks moved to 2box(SDSE) Zourman Conversion Gears www.zourman.com

nocturnodrummer

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Re: Hi hat chick problem
« Reply #17 on: November 15, 2018, 11:28:39 PM »
Well, the problem is less occurrent recently, but it's still there somewhere waiting like a lurking animal in the dark 8) it still happens sometimes. I contacted 2box some time ago and they suspect it's a wiring issue. They suggested sending it to a distributor for a repair... so I believe it's not an easy fix :( Also, the rubber on my hi hat split on the edge and I want to replace it with the new one. I peeled off the rubber succesfully :D the rest of the cymbal is glued so well that it will be really difficult to take apart without damaging. The top metal disc is very thin and it is glued onto kinda double taped foam material. The wires are hidden between two metal plates. By taking apart the controller box you can see part of the piezo and the solder points are visible too and they look alright. The cymbal triggers correctly so that only confirms that. I believe the problem is with the other 2 wires connecting the edge switch somewhere inside... Do any of you guys took their cymbal apart and can advice me something? I know nothing is impossible but is it worth trying?

Here is a pic for you guys wondering how the cymbal is constructed



Personally, I would glue the rubber over the bigger surface, not only on the centre. I believe that's the reason that 2box cymbals have less rebound than the acoustic cymbals. There is a gap between the rubber and metal and it feels sometimes like playing on a cushion.

Cheers!