2box magnet strength?

[Coda]

Can someone tell me how strong the 2box magnet is, subjectively speaking of course... I just got one and its not strong enough to affect the hihat sensor. If I hold a steel object like a screwdriver or knife blade near it I can feel a very small pull but its almost imperceptible.

[digitalDrummer]

I wonder if there is some kind of measure of magnet strength like Kg/m2?

[ANGR77]

The most common way to measure magnetic fields are in Tesla. (T)

I was checking the manual for the electronic circuit used in the hi-hat (Allegro A1392) if they mention anything about the recommended B field but there was not any hints on how strong a magnet needs to be...

I would argument that the original magnet in my setup is extremely weak...

Did you use a original 2box magnet Coda?

Best regards

Angr77

[Drum2]

I have one here laying around and that doesn't pull much either. If yours doesn't affect the sensor at all, I should try some other magnet, just to narrow down the fault.
I'm using my own kind of Jman solution at the moment with the original sensor PCB build into a small box under the pedal and the magnet there is a very strong one which works fine.

[ANGR77]

Just to give all an idea of the strength of a working magnet...I have placed a pair of scissors on a table...and with the magnet I am barely able to drag the scissors around in a circle on the table.

The magnet in my example is appointed to the edge/ long side.

I am not a big fan of the hall sensor stuff...most probably because of that my hi hat circuit is broken and occasionally get in some kind of hazardous mode...

Finally, I got enough, So I came up with my own solution...

[Coda]

Sorry if I wasn't clear. I have a 2box original magnet and I need to know if it is faulty or not. I have other magnets which I use for playing with another sensor box, which are stronger and work just fine.
Can someone with an original magnet tell me how strong its supposed to be? I'm not interested in numbers, just subjectively as I described above.

[ANGR77]

I am using a standard 2box magnet in my scissors test above.

Best regards

Angr77

[Coda]

Great, thanks for the clarification. There's no way my 2box magnet will put even a metal screw around a table. It's going back for replacement. Cheers.

[Coda]

BTW, as a technical aside, the A1392 datasheet says the sensitivity is measured in mv/G, where I assume G is Gauss. I'd be interested to see what the common rare-earth magnets we are using give out, I guess that some magnets datasheets give strengths in Gauss/distance, but most commonly we are just given an N-rating (which is probably estimated and wholly inaccurate).

Anyway - just in case anyone is interested, I have a working hi-hat sensor box I built, under my stand, with 2 Velleman-7 magnets stacked on a custom bracket. It works well enough but I'm not 100% happy with it, sometimes the calibration is off, and I get foot splashes instead of bow/edge hits. It occurred to me why the original hihat doesn't (or shouldn't) need calibrating all the time, because when the hat is closed, it's a constant distance, even when you disassemble and reassemble your setup. With our 'Jman' type setups, this closed distance changes unless you can put the pedal in exactly the same place every time you tighten the clutch. I have to break down my kit to take to practice and to church services every week (sometimes more than once) and it's just something else I want to narrow-down, and make more reliable and consistent, so I have another sensor PCB I am going to place in my top hihat, and the magnet will sit on the bottom hihat with velcro. If it doesn't work as well as the existing setup, then at least I have a spare sensor board in case I forget to tighten the clutch one time, and stamp on the board.

[ANGR77]

Great to hear. The solution you are working on - is it based on the orginal HH PCB board from 2BOX?
It sounds like intresting ideas, if you are able to create a solution which does not need recalibration. (No big deal but it takes some time to do it.)

If you are intrested to see the measured high and low level values for the hi.hat - you can actually get it from Lustarks DKit Manager. (you can't see it on the 2Box module)
In my case - it is showing the calibrated value for high/low in the unit *** panel.
I have the following values for my config on high 24600 and low 94 after a calibration.

Could be good to know when dealing with hihats and trying to get the right values on the pedal.

Best Regards

Angr77

[Coda]

If you are intrested to see the measured high and low level values for the hi.hat - you can actually get it from Lustarks DKit Manager. (you can't see it on the 2Box module)
In my case - it is showing the calibrated value for high/low in the unit *** panel.
I have the following values for my config on high 24600 and low 94 after a calibration.

That is good to know, I have the demo but I didn't see that info before.

The boards I am using are from Beethoven (on the forum here). They are basically the same circuit that the original 2box hat uses.

[Jman]

With our 'Jman' type setups, this closed distance changes unless you can put the pedal in exactly the same place every time you tighten the clutch.

Actually, with my own, in the kits I supply, Industrial Velcro is used to mount the box. So, each time the box is removed and put back it goes back in the exact same spot. I know because I remove mine every time I test a new kit I build ..... I remove my box, test a new one, put mine back, and the calibration is fine. As far as setting up after moving, it is a simple thing to mark the Hi Hat Rod with a permanent marker, or score a mark on the rod so when re-assembling the HH clutch/cymbal goes back to the same spot.

[Coda]

My board is also stuck down with velcro. The movement issue is only at the clutch, and even 1/32" difference from last time changes the playability of the hat. Good idea with the marker, but I have none that will stay permanent on a chromed metal rod (I know because I tried that on my throne )

[digitalDrummer]

Try nail polish or correcting liquid.

[Jman]

Or just take a file or hacksaw blade and scratch a mark on the rod.