DIY 2box Cymbals

[edtc]

maybe ... it s worth the try

[nicog]

I just build the KRC circuit with two piezos and it works like a charm! I have bell, bow and edge with a great zone separation!

[Coda]

Super, good to know.

[edtc]

For those who use real cymbals instead of E-cymbals and have 3 inputs left , this could be a way to add more PIEZO/PIEZO dual zone pads to the module .... 

[Coda]

I've been thinking about trying the KRC on my crashes. I use real cymbals, with a single piezo in the bell. This works well enough on 2box (especially on the ride, because 1 piezo will give 2 useful zones) but I couldn't do it on my previous Roland setup. Which reminds me, I still have to fix my hi-hat (with Jman's edge sensor setup) so I can sell my VH11 kit. Once my exams are over, I will have time to do everything. 3 more weeks...

[nicog]

For the record, my firsts tries didnt work as expected, I had to use different resistors depending on the size of the cymbal and distance/size of the piezos. I end up using large variable resistors and adjusting till I get the right separation.
Also notice that, the bow zone can be activated with either piezos, it will choose the hottest signal and if it is hot enough the module will fire bell or edge.. this makes the bow incredible sensitive, and a hard hit on the bow could be bell or edge.. so adjusting the aux resistor, you can set bell with higher values or edge with lower values.

[Coda]

Great info. If you have time, could you post your cymbal and piezo size(s), and the approximate resistances of the vr's?

[nicog]

Sure, I tried on a 15" 4mm acrylic, with 3mm gum pad on top.
Both piezos are 35mm glued to the acrylic, no DST.

Aux Piezo (edge) resistor is 1M variable (original was 100K)
KRC Internal resistor is 2M variable (original was 1M)


from: http://www.megadrum.info/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=603

enjoy!

[Coda]

Will be interesting to see how well they work on real cymbals. I almost built acrylics in the beginning, but decided that I wanted them to look real. Real cymbals definitely resonate (that's their purpose lol) and it's not easy to dampen them so you don't get double triggers. The ride (being so big) was the biggest problem for me.
I did find that a bead of silicon only around the edge of the cymbal worked really great, but it didn't stay attached, and the other stuff I tried (the polymer type) you definitely can't get off afterwards (if anyone knows how, tell me ) but it doesn't dampen well.

[edtc]

clear soft plastic sheets sticked with DST will dampen them to death and you ll keep the color....

[Coda]

That's what I used in the end, but they still resonate enough to create the odd double trigger occasionally.

[edtc]

another solution is to use 2 thin cymbals with rubber inside of the sandwitch ...

I did one 14 " DIY 3zone ride for my 2BOX module in the past . 
Made with a quick-beat bottom and a broken istambul thin crash .  I left some space without rubber at the edge to have an edge switch ...  and a 12 mm piezo in the bell ...

Just be carefull to use a plastic washer that includes the therad , so both cymbals are not in contact ...

never had noticable double triggering ...

[zobeltek]

Hi Folks, Forgive me if I'm interrupting your thread.

I'm new to 2box and am just loving this thing. Anyway, This piezo/piezo to piezo/switch conversion interests me that I see on this thread.


Would this work for a diy 2box hat? Seems to me that a piezo transistor controlled switch would be much better than a physical psi sensitive one. Yes?

I currently have a Pintech dual piezo/switch cymbal pad for my 2box hat with the Jman mod. It works but I think it could be better. Any drawbacks to making one of these for the hat? Love to hear everyones suggestions.
Regards, Z.