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Messages - mvdput

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Hello Krillo,

I am using a real Hi hat cymbal with the original 2Box  controller extracted from the 2Box cymbal. However, this problem is not reproducible every time. Last few days it did not occur

I have extracted the original 2Box hi hat controller from my hi hat cymbal and mounted it under my footpedal with a magnet. So far so good. But...

After using this for a while I noticed that when the hi hat is in closed position and I play the bow, I get the bow sound. When in closed position playing the bow, then the edge and back to the bow, the controller/module plays the edge sound instead of the bow sound. Only lifting my foot a little and closing it again makes the controller/module play the bow sound again.

Strange enough this only happens in the fully closed position. I can not reproduce this behavior in any other position...

Does anyone have an idea what is going on here?

Very nice!

If I can use that with my Low Volume triggered hi hat, then I am in. :)

General 2box Drumit 5 forum / Re: Mesh head muffling?
« on: March 12, 2019, 12:03:26 AM »
There's a much simpler solution. Leave your trigger settings as they are.

Get a piece of Moongel and cut it into quarters. Place a quarter piece between the head and the trigger. The gel acts as a natural noise gate, removing double triggers and generally cleaning up the signal going into the trigger.

I can't make claim on this but I've definitely been using this for 15+ years and works every time. It also improves the performance of larger (14"+) mesh heads which can be pretty tricky to get right.

You may need to tweak the gain up a little but that should be it.



For the moongel, How hard should the moo gel be compressed between the head and the trigger?
I tried this on my snare but not yet a satisfying result.

e-drum DIY / modifications / Re: Triggering L80 and Drumit5
« on: March 10, 2019, 07:24:32 PM »
I use Arborea low volume  cymbals and they trigger fine.  But I needed several modifications before they triggered fine.

I use a rubber guard around the edge of the cymbals and 1 or 2 pieces of 1,75mm thick rubber under the 20mm piezo in the bell. That works fine for me.

e-drum DIY / modifications / Re: Hi Hat test dsnd transitions not lineair
« on: February 25, 2019, 01:48:32 PM »

You can try to set the sens and curve for the pedal on the hset page.

Test to set the sens to -4 or -6 and the curve to neg1 or neg2....i am always doing this to get the hh pedal to react in more slow and in a wider range.

Best Regards

Anders /

I changed the sens and curve this morning but that doesn't seem to make a lot difference.

But I was thinking about my current setup and I have a magnet of which I don't know the strength, only that it has a pull-force of 7Kg which probably converts to N42 of something. But I read that others use a magnet type N42 to N48. Also my magnet has a hole in the middle of +/- 5mm to mount it on a bolt. Maybe that also affects the magnetic signal when the magnet moves up and down since it is not going up and down in a straight line relative to the hall sensor.
Maybe this doesn't make sense at all but to be one the safe side I am going to order a new N45 or N48 magnet without any hole in the middle.

The hall sensor on the PCB is polarity sensitive. Did you try mounting the magnets both ways along with your other tests?

I did see the polarity during my testing. When the polarity is wrong, the calibration page displays a "Reverse" signal symbol and it does calibrate but I am not able to get edge-sounds when the magnet polarity is wrong.

e-drum DIY / modifications / Hi Hat test dsnd transitions not lineair
« on: February 24, 2019, 09:27:20 PM »
I extracted the original pcb from the original hi hat and mounted it below my footboard and combined it with my low volume hi hat.
While playing I find that the hi hat sensitivity and transitions doesn’t feel linear.
I used 2 different magnets, a strong one and a normal one and different distances from the magnet to the pcb.
I downloaded the hi hat test dand from an old topic and noticed that the different transitions are not equally divided over the total range from open to close.
Going from close to open does trigger zones 10 to 5 quite fast and the remaining transitions are spread over the rest of the range.
For example; zones 10 to 5 are triggered within about 5-6mm of opening the cymbal, while the others 5 (6 to 1)  are spread over  about 20mm.

As I said I did try different magnets and different heights and different open/close widths.

Is this normal behavior or has it to do with my diy setup not being correct?

e-drum DIY / modifications / Re: DIY cymbal
« on: November 07, 2018, 09:51:17 PM »
How does this switch sensor work for the edge sound? I know a lot of people have made some DIY cymbal with a switch, but I can't seem to find any details other than the Myrk choke-switch.

I want to add one extra triggered cymbal to my set from a real cymbal.

I think I already found the answer. It should probably work with what they call the KRC switch:
A nice one to try out on a real cymbal.

e-drum DIY / modifications / Re: DIY cymbal
« on: November 07, 2018, 08:31:24 PM »
... to use it on a cymbal in a s a 3 zone  trigger  , you ll have to build a switch sensor for the edge ,and that s not easy as sticking a piezo where Jman could tell you  ;) ....

HAVE FUN  :patbat2box:

How does this switch sensor work for the edge sound? I know a lot of people have made some DIY cymbal with a switch, but I can't seem to find any details other than the Myrk choke-switch.

I want to add one extra triggered cymbal to my set from a real cymbal.

i think maybe you have things a little confused there.

firstly, a line-level signal is not high-impedance. the high-impedance setting is for plugging in electric guitars or basses. you definitely do not want to have the high-impedance switch engaged.

secondly, a balanced cable has three conductors, and can be used to send either a balanced mono signal, or an unbalanced stereo signal, depending on the equipment in use.

your audio interface has two mono inputs. use two cables, and connect the line outs 1 + 2 to inputs 1 + 2 on your interface. the cables can be either TS (unbalanced) or TRS (balanced).

I indeed got confused with the line-level impedance.
I also confused the 1-2 OUT outputs for being balanced... I read the manual but it did not get clear that those were mono-outputs and 1-2 together can be used as stereo.
So I will reconnect my audio interface tonight because I also had the Line-In from 2Box routed to OUT 3-4 and connected OUT 3 to the Line In 1 connector on my audio interface to split the drums and song.
So fiding out the outputs are mono I am now short of an input to connect iPod and split the music from the drums.

why are you only recording the left channel? it will sound a lot better if you record in stereo...

Good question, the Steinberg UR22-mkII says if you enable the High Impedance switch, you must use an unbalanced cable (=mono). I assumed the line-out of the 2Box was high impedance....
I did not try it with the high-impedance switch off and a balanced cable (stereo).  ::)

General 2Box Drumit 3 Forum / Re: What all the fuss is about
« on: June 01, 2018, 11:32:55 AM »
This is looking very coo!  :rock:

I want something equal, can I order one?  ;)

Thanks for the option JMan,

that does sound like a fair option.

For now I sort of solved the sound quality issue by using the Cubase LE software that came with the Steinberg UR22 mk11 usb soundcard. I record the audio output from my 2Box through the Steinberg into Cubase. I had to do some reading and tweaking but for now the sound seem to be ok.

For the video part I probably do end up with syncing audio and video and it seems that Cubase can handle video as well, although I did not yet tested the possibilities.

General 2box Drumit 5 forum / Re: Recording 2box at home
« on: May 31, 2018, 11:34:55 AM »
Have a look. This is done with the Lexicon, no processing, FX or any other than the output stereo from 2box

@Makoki This sounds good. Which software are you using to record?

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