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Messages - welshsteve

#481
You did get an AC/AC replacement power supply right? A lot of people don't realise the drumit5 works with AC not DC (like 99% of stuff) power. I went through quite a few over the years, had to special order a replcement 2box adapter and then one similar from an electrical suppliers. I think it was a 15v AC 2 amp supply was the last one I got, made by Alto.
The drumit3 however works on DC, which means if the supply ever should go down, it would be easier to replace.
#482
It’s the same kind of usb cable You’d use for a printer, midi keyboard controller, I have a Roland td15 module which uses the same kind of connection. Pretty standard I have always thought.
#483
Yeah, DO NOT use it in usb mode with a 32 gig mod. I am lead to believe that you could actually damage it permanently doing that. The fact the SD card can be taken to a computer, all files transferred a lot quicker than in USB mode without the module means USB mode is redundant anyway.
#484
General 2Box Drumit 3 Forum / Re: Output Options
September 23, 2018, 03:03:20 PM
I understand a little clearer now. Only use outs 1+2 on Dit3 so haven't looked at splitting them. Just from the one time I did with the drumit5 4 years ago I think I had to pan them as 1+2 (for example) is a stereo out. So If I want something to come from 1 only, I'd have to pan it that way.

As I don't have the di5 anymore, only the di3, I'll set the kit up later and have a look and see if I can get what you're after.
#485
General 2Box Drumit 3 Forum / Re: Output Options
September 23, 2018, 07:49:28 AM
Sorry if you have done this, but are you hard panning the things you want to assign?

So,

Kick output 1+2 panned hard left
Snare Output 1+2 hard right
Toms output 3+4 Hard Left
Cymbals 3+4 hard right?
#486
General 2Box Drumit 3 Forum / Re: Drum-It 3 Manual
September 22, 2018, 11:36:39 PM
I think it all depends on the sound. If a dsdn has 2 zones built into it, it will show 2 zones and you'll need a pad and a correct trigger type to work it.
Thus, if that sound only has a single zone on it, the rim and pad will trigger that sound.
I think I have got this right, anyone?
#487
Lustar's Software alone seems like it's worth getting a windows machine (yeah I know I can partition the Mac to have windows on it, but I am trying to preserve limited SSD space)

Doesn't have to be a powerful machine so I could probably pick up a SH laptop for less than £100 that would do the job nicely.
#488
General chit-chat / Re: 2Box Facebook group?
September 05, 2018, 01:26:39 PM
I thought that's a page not a group.
#489
Yes absolutely! Just have to pick a pad type (probably kick will suffice) set gain, threshold, mask time and curve to suit your playing and you'll be away!
#490
That is SOOO cool man! Great job. I'd loved to have gigged with this set up!
#491
I know what you mean about the spongy thing. My largest pad (13") was specified for that reason alone. I figured if I went larger I would run into that issue. Also, it does save a bit of space too.
Some heads (Drum-tec) are much better than others, haven't tested personally to know, but Justin over at 65drums highly rates the drumtec ones even on 16" He does say though that higher rather than lower tension is recommended.
#492
I use on my Yamaha pads the Aquarian cymbal springs. They will stop it spinning and will also make sure there's give when hit. That's my best suggestion.
#493
General 2Box Drumit 3 Forum / Yamaha PSY115
August 27, 2018, 11:44:24 PM
Anyone got a Di3 with the Yamaha PSY115? I am getting edge sound on the bell at random hits, sometimes quite loud and as I use the Randy Black ride sample, the edge isn't very nice. I have the right trigger setting (CpSY) and all the gains threshold etc are right. It's less so if I hit with the tip of the stick, but not totally eliminated.
#494
You could always take a hacksaw to the L shaped mounting piece where the bass drum pedal attaches, saw off just enough to get the pedal perfectly close to the head. Perhaps file the rough edges and then paint with hammorite for atheistics, but that'll also work, will probably be better idea than my first one.
#495
You could put a 10mil (at a guess) spacer on the mounting plate. The part I mean, is the L piece that bolts to the kick pad and what the pedal connects to on the floor. So, take that off (I think it's 4 tension bolts) cut some wood that's about the size of the the mounting L piece that the pad section (so that when it's connected it doesn't stand out) drill holes where the tension rods connect and put it between the pad and the L piece. Thus moving the bottom part (where the pedal connects) 10 mil (or however deep it will be) further back.

I hope I have explained myself enough, I'd need pictures to show it properly.

You will probably need longer tension rods though, assuming the thread sizes are standard, shouldn't be hard to obtain from a drum shop.

I had this problem but I got around it by adjusting the beater cam further toward the head.