Hi All,
im not having much luck with 2box stuff!!!
I have been gigging about 7 times a week with my 2box kit. Tonight i decided to use a real snare and put a Triggit on it. It worked ok for about half the gig then it just stopped working and i couldn't do anything to get it working again ( turned off the unit, changed gain settings) anyone else had a problem like this?
On another note it was a little odd, there was a little delay in hearing the real snare then the trigger sound, but i guess thats normal, I'm not concern with the trigger braking the first time i used it.
cheers
So , no one has had a Triggit fail on them?
Hi!
Is your triggit trigger still broken? Did you get the system to work again after switching back to the 2Box Snare?
I have experienced some latency, if some triggers have been wrong configured. Example like if using a 2Box cymbal have been configured as a cyedge etc. It is also important to be in the "kit" mode when playing. Not the "unit" mode (for configuring triggers or outputs etc), which occasionally could have impact on the latency on 1.30.0 bios version. (Seems to be better on 1.30.3)
Best Regards
Angr77
Is it a hardware or software issue. If you connect the trigger to your Tom input, does it work?
A trigger is a quite simple device. If it failed then it's likely that a connection got broken from the piezo or the jack. It's rare in manufactured triggers but it can happen just like in anything you buy. It sounds like you were just unlucky (assuming of course you didn't previously throw this trigger in the studio at the guitarists head for playing too loud :))
I normally would say as Coda mentioned, possibly a broken piezo wire on the trigger, or a TRS cable problem. But you have mentioned in other threads having the module change kits on it's own, outputs failing, and that you did the 32GB card mod. So, not sure whether one thing has to do with the other, but your previous problems could very well be related to your card or extender. That is why we recommended trying your original 4GB card in the previous threads. But you never gave any info saying whether you found the answer to the problem or not.
A corrupted card or problem with extender can cause some really bad symptoms. But with no more info it is all guess work at this point.
Quote from: ANGR77 on January 03, 2016, 11:17:20 AM
Hi!
Is your triggit trigger still broken? Did you get the system to work again after switching back to the 2Box Snare?
I have experienced some latency, if some triggers have been wrong configured. Example like if using a 2Box cymbal have been configured as a cyedge etc. It is also important to be in the "kit" mode when playing. Not the "unit" mode (for configuring triggers or outputs etc), which occasionally could have impact on the latency on 1.30.0 bios version. (Seems to be better on 1.30.3)
Best Regards
Angr77
Its defineatly the trigger as when i plugged in the snare pad again it worked fine.
Quote from: digitalDrummer on January 04, 2016, 05:22:24 AM
Is it a hardware or software issue. If you connect the trigger to your Tom input, does it work?
Hardware, its the trigger itself that is broken, doh
Quote from: Jman on January 04, 2016, 07:51:15 AM
I normally would say as Coda mentioned, possibly a broken piezo wire on the trigger, or a TRS cable problem. But you have mentioned in other threads having the module change kits on it's own, outputs failing, and that you did the 32GB card mod. So, not sure whether one thing has to do with the other, but your previous problems could very well be related to your card or extender. That is why we recommended trying your original 4GB card in the previous threads. But you never gave any info saying whether you found the answer to the problem or not.
A corrupted card or problem with extender can cause some really bad symptoms. But with no more info it is all guess work at this point.
Yeh, i do appreciate the advice with trying the 4 gb card, i have gotten back to you as i have been busy gigging and the stuff stays in the van between gigs. however , one thing i did manage to do was delete all the new 2box loop kits that start with a D, after all the original kits. I deleted these as that was what my 2box was jumping to on its own, the D1 kit, or something. Since i deleted all the sample kits i haven't had the problem with the 2box changing kits on its own.
As for a loose or broken wire, i have had a close look but can't fine anything obvious yet. I have a look tomorrow, as i said, a day off.
Hey,
I've had many break on me, so you're not alone. Before trigit I had every series of Ddrum ones they make, and all had the same issue.
Basically, the wire breaks at the solder point. 90% of the time it's the blue wire. Having had some correspondence with 2box, they've looked into it and concluded that the blue wire is soldered to close to the edge of the piezo thus making it hinge during hits and vibrations. They've suggested to resolder closer into the disc, which I've done. They offered to do it for me if I sent them to them but not having time off the road, it opted to do it myself. I assume they've realised this flaw and had the factory to amend this soldering on newer batches.
I cannot say just yet if it's sorted the problem longer term, but I'll report back one way or another.
If I can attach a photo of what they mean, I will.
Steve
Quote from: welshsteve on January 05, 2016, 04:30:21 AM
Hey,
I've had many break on me, so you're not alone. Before trigit I had every series of Ddrum ones they make, and all had the same issue.
Basically, the wire breaks at the solder point. 90% of the time it's the blue wire. Having had some correspondence with 2box, they've looked into it and concluded that the blue wire is soldered to close to the edge of the piezo thus making it hinge during hits and vibrations. They've suggested to resolder closer into the disc, which I've done. They offered to do it for me if I sent them to them but not having time off the road, it opted to do it myself. I assume they've realised this flaw and had the factory to amend this soldering on newer batches.
I cannot say just yet if it's sorted the problem longer term, but I'll report back one way or another.
If I can attach a photo of what they mean, I will.
Steve
I have had a look at the wires and all the wires i can see look ok. I don't want to take the thing apart too much as ill loose any warranty . could you email me a photo of what you mean. maybe i can fix it.
thanks
Or post it here so we can all see it pls.
I'm doing this from an iPad and can't seem to be able to attach an image. I'll try on the computer shortly. But to further the discussion, you may not see the break, it can be less than a millimetre to break a connection. Here's a way of checking it.
Plug in the offending trigger to the module, but don't mount it on a drum. Make sure the threasholds is quite low, say -36 or something. While holding it in one hand tap the piezo with your finger and with another finger press on the piezo so you're compressing the foam. If you hear the occasional triggering of the sound, it's a break in one of the connections.
Pic of best way to solder it (if thats what you choose to do) to follow.
Quote from: welshsteve on January 06, 2016, 01:21:36 AM
I'm doing this from an iPad and can't seem to be able to attach an image. I'll try on the computer shortly. But to further the discussion, you may not see the break, it can be less than a millimetre to break a connection. Here's a way of checking it.
Plug in the offending trigger to the module, but don't mount it on a drum. Make sure the threasholds is quite low, say -36 or something. While holding it in one hand tap the piezo with your finger and with another finger press on the piezo so you're compressing the foam. If you hear the occasional triggering of the sound, it's a break in one of the connections.
Pic of best way to solder it (if thats what you choose to do) to follow.
ok, i have already tried to upload a photo to this forum and you cant . it has to be a link to a photo.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/njoemwbjveycwee/IMG_20151227_183032.jpg?dl=0)
Ok this is how they suggested re-soldering the piezo. If you look just below the red cable, you can see where the blue cable used to be connected.
I go back out on tour on friday, it's a 2 hour show every night, 6 nights a week for 3 months. If they manage to hold up after this, then I'll eat my hat.
Oh wait, looks like the link didn't work. How do I attach a photo again?
Quote from: welshsteve on January 06, 2016, 01:54:45 AM
Oh wait, looks like the link didn't work. How do I attach a photo again?
I think you need to upload to another website then put the link on this forum. I just emailed you, I had your email address from when you emailed me the '80's snare.
Quote from: welshsteve on January 06, 2016, 01:53:37 AM
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/njoemwbjveycwee/IMG_20151227_183032.jpg?dl=1)
Ok this is how they suggested re-soldering the piezo. If you look just below the red cable, you can see where the blue cable used to be connected.
I go back out on tour on friday, it's a 2 hour show every night, 6 nights a week for 3 months. If they manage to hold up after this, then I'll eat my hat.
If you use dropbox for images you need to change the dl=0 (download no) to dl=1 (download yes) in the URL.
I'd really be interested to know who the band is that is working so hard :P
Thank you for uploading the photo here, I'm sure it will be a big help for anyone that has this problem of the blue wire breaking. I've had some correspondence with the author of this topic and sure enough, this was the problem with him. I hope the new batches come from the factory with the amended wiring.
As for what band is working that hard, well it's a show called The Circus Of Horrors. We tour theatres of uk every winter. This year we've been to Moscow, Amsterdam and will do a week in Ireland in late May. Per tour, anything over 100 shows, two hours each of pretty intense heavy rock so my gear takes a pasting!
Hope this new wiring makes the trigit triggers last better, such a drag when one fails mid show!! Personally I don't think a piezo placed against a Mylar head can sustain prolonged use, I think it's just a lack of durability. I think if the piezo was heavily powder/rubber coated (like I've seen some cheap alternatves) it would improve it, but who knows. Can't really tell unless they've been put through a tour like I do every year.
A couple of years ago, I had pintech ones and they had some great design features. Quick, no soldering piezo replacement, just un-clip broken one and pull away from housing, remove adhesive on replacement piezo, clip to terminals and you're away. I did this MID SONG!
But the downside is that they didn't work well with the 2box module, double triggering all over the place so I had to dampen down the heads a lot. After that they were okay. This was before the firmware update which has the mask time feature, I'm sure they'd fair better with the module now.
I didn't like the Allen key method to fasten it to the rim either and I found they worked loose a lot. Over tightening them also began to warp the housing. So between all the ddrum, pintech, old Kat and now the Trigit triggers, I've yet to find the perfect system to trigger acoustic drums live in terms of performance, user friendliness and durability.
I'm not giving up yet though, the next method might be DIY internal mounted trigger. But I'll give these trigit ones a proper go with the new wiring first.
Quote from: Nubium on January 05, 2016, 03:07:50 AM
Yeh, i do appreciate the advice with trying the 4 gb card, i have gotten back to you as i have been busy gigging and the stuff stays in the van between gigs. however , one thing i did manage to do was delete all the new 2box loop kits that start with a D, after all the original kits. I deleted these as that was what my 2box was jumping to on its own, the D1 kit, or something. Since i deleted all the sample kits i haven't had the problem with the 2box changing kits on its own.
Today, after remembering this post I also remember that there was a bug in the first release of OS1.30. None of us that Beta tested it discovered the problem, but after the release it was found. They have since replaced that on the 2Box sites with an updated OS1.30 with no bugs. I don't remember exactly what the bug was but it was related to the loop function.
Just mentioning that in case you happen to have the earliest 1.30 OS. J
Coincidentally, and sorry for going a little off topic - I spotted this in the new Cambridge Corn Exchange brochure! :-)
Circus of Horrors
Sat 23 Jan | 7.30pm
£28.50, £21.50
Concessions £3 off
Plagued by a swamp of killer
klowns, sword swallowers,
demon dwarfs, death defying
aerialists and lots more, this
is a show ruled by the undead
and climaxing in an awesome
flaming apocalypse.
The Circus of Horrors began at
the 1995 Glastonbury Festival
and became an instant hit,
touring all over the world from
Chile to Chatham, Argentina to
Aberdeen, Japan to Jersey.
The show which stormed
into the finals of Britain’s Got
Talent, is back to mark its 21st
anniversary in spectacular style.
Cheers!
Andy
Yep, that's us!
Excellent! :)
Okay so I've decided to try a different trigger. The Trigit ones seems to be holding up with the new soldering method.
But wanted something more permanent that I don't have to mount and unmount every gig.
So I bought some intrig triggers and Bix trigger beaters from Triggera, and I have to say nothing comes close for triggering acoustic Drums with mylar heads. Their build quality is rock solid. Just done my first show with them and I'm blown away.
Very happy drummer right now I am.
I looked at the picture and noticed the soldering is not the best. Tips:
Only strip a wire for the length you need to solder it. Stripping it, slightly damages the outer layer of wires making them vunerable for mechanical tension.
Tin the wires before making the joint by heating them with the soldergun and then use soldertin, do it when the wires are still fresh.
When you solder the wire to the print make sure the solderjoint you leave is nice and shiney. The red wire solder joint looks much better then the blue wire joint.
Most important one: use the right soldergun. Too big will cook the wire and print and burn the additive in the tin (makes the tin flow better), too small will leave you with bad joints because the tin will not melt completely.
The picture shows the blue wire was soldered with too much heath. Isolation is slightly melted and the solderjoined looks cooked. Possibly a bad joint.
BTW: hard to translate my Dutch instructions into English
Thank you for the tips and I will endeavour to use them. But I repaired these on the road, with little time between shows and with a limited amount of tools at my disposal. These triggers were less than a month old before they started failing.
Quote from: welshsteve on January 22, 2016, 01:34:34 AM
Okay so I've decided to try a different trigger. The Trigit ones seems to be holding up with the new soldering method.
But wanted something more permanent that I don't have to mount and unmount every gig.
So I bought some intrig triggers and Bix trigger beaters from Triggera, and I have to say nothing comes close for triggering acoustic Drums with mylar heads. Their build quality is rock solid. Just done my first show with them and I'm blown away.
Very happy drummer right now I am.
Are these the new V2 triggers? I have the V1 and have been very pleased with them but one of them on a tom has just started to buzz as if there is an intermittent fault starting.
Andy
Hi,
It seems that I have the same issue. I need to unglue the piezo from the foam. Any advice ? What sort of glue should I use to glue them back ?
Does anyone know why the piezo is on top of the foam. Usually it's glued between 2 pices of foam. Probably little less sensitive but more robust ....
Dennis
Quote from: Thiof on May 17, 2018, 12:01:09 PM
Hi,
It seems that I have the same issue. I need to unglue the piezo from the foam. Any advice ? What sort of glue should I use to glue them back ?
Does anyone know why the piezo is on top of the foam. Usually it's glued between 2 pices of foam. Probably little less sensitive but more robust ....
Dennis
I had to fix this a week ago, but I did it in such a way that I didn't have to unglue the piezo because like you I was afraid of how could I glue it back. So I lift the foam just enough to let the soldering gun be in contact with the cable and fix it. But I think some glue like Shoe Goo should be ok for it.