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Drumit 3 Card Mod

Started by Jman, March 25, 2018, 12:30:31 AM

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Jman

I will be posting more details later but just thought I would post a couple teaser pics. These are with the extender installed, but I have to prep a 32GB Card. This shows the 4GB card in the extender with the module turned on.  ;D
Testing the module in my kit before mod:
100_2686 - Copy by Jman Stealth, on Flickr
Extender installed with orig. 4GB Card:
100_2689 - Copy by Jman Stealth, on Flickr
Module Booted with extender and orig. card:
100_2691 - Copy by Jman Stealth, on Flickr
I could tell you where to stick that piezo! :D ;)
http://stealthdrums.com/

Jman

#1
OK, I now have a Drumit Three with Side Card slot, 32GB. Works great, no destructive modifications done to the module. I did not have to completely remove the mother board. I did use a little bit of heat on the front of the module casing being careful to stay away from the screen and I did not heat much just a little to loosen things slightly. I lifted the mother board only on the side that has the card slot and was able to lift enough to remove the stock card and install the extender/card. The ribbon did fit between the top and bottom of the case. I put a little electrical tape on the casing to insulate the ribbon to be sure it was not resting on the metal. So, in summary, the card is now 32GB, accessible so I can change or add cards at will. No modifications or damage done to the module ...... smiling  ;D NOTE: Since doing the mod, Walse also did it and reported he did not need to use heat or a heat gun ..... Even easier!
32GB Drumit Three:
100_2694 - Copy by Jman Stealth, on Flickr
Card Slot installed on module side just like on the Drumit Five:
100_2699 - Copy by Jman Stealth, on Flickr
View of Extender Slot from side of module:
100_2700 - Copy by Jman Stealth, on Flickr
32GB Drumit Three beside Pearl Mimic Pro:
100_2703 - Copy by Jman Stealth, on Flickr
I could tell you where to stick that piezo! :D ;)
http://stealthdrums.com/

Jman

#2
When I get more time I will prolly put together a video of the process. That means I will have to take the module out of my kit and disassemble/reassemble with all steps documented on video. That will take some time and is a bit of a hassle. I decided not to do video while doing the mod the first time. I already had a plan of how I would do it, but since I was flying blind I just wanted to make sure it was doable and everything worked as expected the first time. Plus I might have needed to edit out the four letter words (like DARN, and HECK  ;) ) the first time around ..... LOL.   J
I could tell you where to stick that piezo! :D ;)
http://stealthdrums.com/

ANGR77

#3
Extremely nice done, Jman!

The trick was then to take some kind heat gun and very carefully heat on the front plate (over the 2box logo on the side which hold the card etc)...so that the heat glue released the board on the side?

Best regards

Anders / www.zourman.com

Sonor Safari, Pearl Crystalbeat, Zourman Triggers, Roland & Triggera, 2box Cymbals & HH, RT-10, KT-10, BT-1, VH-11/12/13, ATV hh, KT-10, 14C/13R/15R, PCY-155, MD, 2Box 5 MK1&II & 3, DD4SE, Pearl ButtKicker Addictive Drums 2.1.14, all ADPaks moved to 2box, Zourman Conversion Gears www.zourman.com

Jman

#4
Quote from: ANGR77 on March 25, 2018, 05:42:08 AM
Extremely nice done, Jman!

The trick was then to take some kind heat gun and very carefully heat on the front plate (over the 2box logo on the side which hold the card etc)...so that the heat glue released the board on the side?

Best regards

Anders / www.zourman.com
Honestly, I didn't see exactly what was happening with the heat. My thoughts since seeing edicito's pics of the 2 sided foam type tape that was adhering the motherboard/screen to the top module plate was to apply some heat very carefully around that area, but only gently and away from plastic screen, buttons, etc. So that is what I did. I have a bit of experience with a heat gun so I am quite aware how powerful it can be. I took plenty of caution and would say that I really only warmed the top area up moderately. After doing that I started to carefully lift the motherboard only on the card side. It seemed to loosen and come up easily enough to get the board up far enough to pop the card out. The card slot of the module is spring loaded on the D3. So you just push in and it pops out some ..... then you can pull it out. I then put the extender card in the slot in place of the original card. I tested the 4GB D3 card ..... Woops, NO USB CONNECTED message appeared ..... that threw me off a bit. I presumed the extender card was not firmly in the slot, but after a couple tries and then putting the original 4GB card directly in the slot instead of the extender .... I got the same NO USB CONNECTED message ..... so I had to put the thinking cap on ..... thought .... I wonder if the motherboard needs to be grounded to the case. I put one of the screws in that holds the motherboard to the case ..... and sure enough the original 2Box card was detected directly in the slot ..... OK .... so now I got it! ..... took the screw out, put the extender back in. Put a couple screws in the motherboard ...... GOLDEN .... all worked.

I have always tested the extenders/cards with the module open to be sure all is fine before putting everything back together. Never had that happen with the D5 .... but a good tip to know. Test everything before putting the case back together, but be sure to put at least one of the screws in the motherboard before testing. OK, off to bed for me. Long day!

I plan to eventually disassemble/reassemble the module and do a step by step video of the process. And hopefully when I do I will learn a little more about why/how or if the heat aided in this. But it did work!
I could tell you where to stick that piezo! :D ;)
http://stealthdrums.com/

edcito

Oh my God, you have voided your warranty! ;D

Jman

Quote from: edcito on March 25, 2018, 08:17:15 AM
Oh my God, you have voided your warranty! ;D
Yeah, I like to get that out of the way early! ;) But actually I could pull that mod out easily ..... and nobody would know, except I posted it all over the net .... LOL  ;D
I could tell you where to stick that piezo! :D ;)
http://stealthdrums.com/

welshsteve

On a side note Jman, what do you think of the module. I know it's not gonna be a major difference (or any) to the drumit5, but as a module vs cost, vs easy of use etc...

Your thoughts?
My Hovercraft is full of Eels!

ANGR77

Quote from: Jman on March 25, 2018, 07:25:26 AM
Honestly, I didn't see exactly what was happening with the heat. My thoughts since seeing edicito's pics of the 2 sided foam type tape that was adhering the motherboard/screen to the top module plate was to apply some heat very carefully around that area, but only gently and away from plastic screen, buttons, etc. So that is what I did. I have a bit of experience with a heat gun so I am quite aware how powerful it can be. I took plenty of caution and would say that I really only warmed the top area up moderately. After doing that I started to carefully lift the motherboard only on the card side. It seemed to loosen and come up easily enough to get the board up far enough to pop the card out. The card slot of the module is spring loaded on the D3. So you just push in and it pops out some ..... then you can pull it out. I then put the extender card in the slot in place of the original card. I tested the 4GB D3 card ..... Woops, NO USB CONNECTED message appeared ..... that threw me off a bit. I presumed the extender card was not firmly in the slot, but after a couple tries and then putting the original 4GB card directly in the slot instead of the extender .... I got the same NO USB CONNECTED message ..... so I had to put the thinking cap on ..... thought .... I wonder if the motherboard needs to be grounded to the case. I put one of the screws in that holds the motherboard to the case ..... and sure enough the original 2Box card was detected directly in the slot ..... OK .... so now I got it! ..... took the screw out, put the extender back in. Put a couple screws in the motherboard ...... GOLDEN .... all worked.

I have always tested the extenders/cards with the module open to be sure all is fine before putting everything back together. Never had that happen with the D5 .... but a good tip to know. Test everything before putting the case back together, but be sure to put at least one of the screws in the motherboard before testing. OK, off to bed for me. Long day!

I plan to eventually disassemble/reassemble the module and do a step by step video of the process. And hopefully when I do I will learn a little more about why/how or if the heat aided in this. But it did work!

I think it was good “guts” to even try with a heat gun...knowing you need to be extremely careful. (An ordinary drummer would probably have sent the three back to the fives original color. :-) Also to find out about the earth problems if not assembling the PCB completely. Good work here!

Best regards

Anders / www.zourman.com

Sonor Safari, Pearl Crystalbeat, Zourman Triggers, Roland & Triggera, 2box Cymbals & HH, RT-10, KT-10, BT-1, VH-11/12/13, ATV hh, KT-10, 14C/13R/15R, PCY-155, MD, 2Box 5 MK1&II & 3, DD4SE, Pearl ButtKicker Addictive Drums 2.1.14, all ADPaks moved to 2box, Zourman Conversion Gears www.zourman.com

Jman

Quote from: welshsteve on March 25, 2018, 08:57:46 AM
On a side note Jman, what do you think of the module. I know it's not gonna be a major difference (or any) to the drumit5, but as a module vs cost, vs easy of use etc...

Your thoughts?
I haven't really even listened to it yet. I am a bit relieved that there is a work around to get 6 outputs to my mixer though .... Will know more in coming week/weeks. But from everything I have heard from edicito it looks like it will be a great little module. I am already familiar with the DI3 trigger parameters and features somewhat because I am already beta testing the same OS on the Drumit Five and it has some nice improvements/features.
I could tell you where to stick that piezo! :D ;)
http://stealthdrums.com/

Jman

Quote from: ANGR77 on March 25, 2018, 10:06:43 AM
I think it was good “guts” to even try with a heat gun...knowing you need to be extremely careful. (An ordinary drummer would probably have sent the three back to the fives original color. :-) Also to find out about the earth problems if not assembling the PCB completely. Good work here!

Best regards

Anders / www.zourman.com
Thanks Anders .... I'm just fortunate my brain was having a "good day" yesterday ...... and that the recipe I had planned in advance about how I would attempt the card mod actually worked. LOL
I could tell you where to stick that piezo! :D ;)
http://stealthdrums.com/

Walse

Gorgeous JMan. You are a very brave man!!!

Then there is enough space between the top and bottom sections of the case to insert the extension cable. Isn't it?

Jman

#12
Quote from: Walse on March 27, 2018, 05:23:47 PM
Gorgeous JMan. You are a very brave man!!!

Then there is enough space between the top and bottom sections of the case to insert the extension cable. Isn't it?
Yes, I have mentioned above already in my posts that no modification to the Drumit Three case is necessary. I just put a little electrical tape on the 1" corresponding spot on the case that the ribbon cable might touch, just to be safe. But I have had the mod installed for a few days now and there is no static, popping, or other type symptoms of the cable having any problems.
I could tell you where to stick that piezo! :D ;)
http://stealthdrums.com/

Harrybuoy

Quote from: Jman on March 25, 2018, 07:25:26 AM
Honestly, I didn't see exactly what was happening with the heat. My thoughts since seeing edicito's pics of the 2 sided foam type tape that was adhering the motherboard/screen to the top module plate was to apply some heat very carefully around that area, but only gently and away from plastic screen, buttons, etc. So that is what I did. I have a bit of experience with a heat gun so I am quite aware how powerful it can be. I took plenty of caution and would say that I really only warmed the top area up moderately. After doing that I started to carefully lift the motherboard only on the card side. It seemed to loosen and come up easily enough to get the board up far enough to pop the card out. The card slot of the module is spring loaded on the D3. So you just push in and it pops out some ..... then you can pull it out. I then put the extender card in the slot in place of the original card. I tested the 4GB D3 card ..... Woops, NO USB CONNECTED message appeared ..... that threw me off a bit. I presumed the extender card was not firmly in the slot, but after a couple tries and then putting the original 4GB card directly in the slot instead of the extender .... I got the same NO USB CONNECTED message ..... so I had to put the thinking cap on ..... thought .... I wonder if the motherboard needs to be grounded to the case. I put one of the screws in that holds the motherboard to the case ..... and sure enough the original 2Box card was detected directly in the slot ..... OK .... so now I got it! ..... took the screw out, put the extender back in. Put a couple screws in the motherboard ...... GOLDEN .... all worked.

I have always tested the extenders/cards with the module open to be sure all is fine before putting everything back together. Never had that happen with the D5 .... but a good tip to know. Test everything before putting the case back together, but be sure to put at least one of the screws in the motherboard before testing. OK, off to bed for me. Long day!

I plan to eventually disassemble/reassemble the module and do a step by step video of the process. And hopefully when I do I will learn a little more about why/how or if the heat aided in this. But it did work!

Hi Is there any reason you did not just cut a slot in the side, is the onboard sd card reader not up to re using over and over again, Thanks Harry

Jman

#14
Quote from: Harrybuoy on April 06, 2018, 01:00:16 PM
Hi Is there any reason you did not just cut a slot in the side, is the onboard sd card reader not up to re using over and over again, Thanks Harry
I try to avoid anything that permanently alters the module. Right now, I could reverse the mod and the module would be just like it comes from the factory.

As an additional note: Walse has done the mod now and reported that you do not need to heat the surface of the module. So the mod is not much different than it was for the Drumit Five now. Less risk than we originally thought.
I could tell you where to stick that piezo! :D ;)
http://stealthdrums.com/